Micro-brewed beers becoming popular drink choice

By Sean Nakamura

The beer big boys, Anheuser-Busch, Miller Brewing Co. and Coors Brewing Co., still hold the bulk of the market share in the industry, but the little guys, the so-called micro-breweries, are noticing that there is more than enough room in the industry to accommodate the distinct and carefully crafted beers they produce.

Consumers, looking for more bang for the dollar, are noticing that there is more to beer than what comes strictly out of the can. These small-batch producers are taking traditional and unconventional brewing methods and creating products of great flavor and distinctness. In many ways, the domestic micro-brewed beers are taking the place of imported beers as the choice of those looking for something special to drink.

For those of you who might not be up to snuff with your beer knowledge, here is a crash course on some of the beer basics.

Beer is basically made up of four ingredients, water, malted grain, yeast and hops, with each playing an integral part in the final product.

Water is probably the single most important ingredient as it will make up more than 90 percent of the final product and will be an important element in every step of the beer-making process. Although modern chemical analysis has made finding a natural water source less critical, the fact remains, all beers need pristine water in all facets of production.

Malted grain, primarily barley and to a lesser degree wheat, is the primary source of fuel supplying the beer fermentation process. The malted grain, when combined with yeast in a soluble solution, starts the beer-making operation. Adding hops, the flower of a vine related to the cannabis family, for bitterness completes the basic recipe for most types of brews.

Beer can be broadly divided into two distinct types, terms which you will hear time and again when talking about beer: ale and lager.

The primary difference between the two is the kind of yeast used in the fermentation process. Ales use quick-working yeast, which works best in conditions near room temperature and generally produces beers with more aromatic qualities in the finished product.

Lagers, originating from the German word meaning "to store," use slow-working yeast better suited for fermentation under near-freezing conditions. The resulting beers are characterized as being crisper on the palate and of more hop character. From these two types branch the many different styles available on the market.

Over on the Big Island, three generations of the Shindo family are producing quality beers under the Mehana Brewing Co. label. Founded by son Dustin, via a University of Washington education heavy in extra-curricular beer making, Mehana Brewing Co. (Mehana translating to "Warmth of the Sun") is combining the choicest ingredients of the Pacific Northwest and pristine waters of the Hilo Coast to produce Hawaiian beers of unmatched quality. All beers proudly boast that no preservatives or additives are used in production.

Currently, the production is concentrated into four unique brews:

• Mehana Red Ale, the flagship brand, is full-bodied yet exceptionally smooth, showing well the roasted malt that gives it its distinct flavor.
• Mehana Beer, packaged in the blue label, is finished in the style of German Kolsh ale, the light golden color and bright, almost fruity character make it perfect choice of those just starting to try the individuality of micro-brewed beers.
• Tsunami Lager is more full-bodied than most lagers, yet maintains a "hoppy" character and smooth finish typical of this style of beer, so perfect for the warm tropical Hawaiian climate.
• The newest member to the family, Mauna Kea Pale Ale, has become a favorite since its inception a year ago. Lighter in color than most pale ales, it combines subtle hop bitterness in a complex and well balanced brew worthy of its grand namesake.

If you ever find yourself in Hilo, the Shindo family welcomes you to visit the brewery at 275 E. Kawili St. about five minutes from the airport in the industrial area next to Hawai'i Community College.

Get out of the rain for a tasting of some truly exceptional beers at the brewery, which is open Mondays-Fridays 8 a.m.-5:30 p.m. and Saturdays 9 a.m.-5:30 p.m.

Sean Nakamura can be found behind the bar at Alan Wong's Restaurant.