Island Style
Fresh prints in apparel

By Paula Rath
Advertiser Staff Writer

Nouvelle: Robert Kennon of Kailua in a silk aloha shirt ($78) and Michele Sonen of Kahala in a keiki print round-neck top in silk crepe with brocade contrast ($98) and Capri ($88). All are hand painted, from Nouvelle in Kapahulu. Photos by Gregory Yamamoto • The Honolulu Advertiser

Young-spinning Nouvelle Designs combines Asian themes with contemporary European silhouettes. And Christina von Fieandt, known for her hand-made fabric made of ribbon woven in a cross-hatch fashion, has found a way to translate the distinctive but costly textured weave into an affordable print polyester.

Nouvelle

Wei Yang, who is from Beijing, and Eva Kam, who is from Liliha, met in fashion and business classes at the University of Hawai'i, Manoa. After graduating in 1999, they continued their friendship while working at Liberty House, Yang as an assistant buyer, Kam as a personal shopper. During coffee breaks and lunch hours, they discussed starting a high-end fabric store to meet the needs of Hawai'i seamstresses.

Serendipity brought about a change of direction, however. On a trip home to China to visit her parents, Yang discovered a manufacturing plant that was producing beautiful hand-painted silk garments.

On her return to the Islands, she and Kam decided to create their own line of clothing using these silks. Yang began sketching and designing and, in a matter of months, Nouvelle was on the racks in the partners' Kapahulu boutique.

The result is a beautifully constructed line of garments fashioned from handpainted silk charmeuse, georgette and crepe, often accented with delicate brocades. Asian details such as hand-knotted buttons and ornamental frogs are found on garments with European construction and flair. Yang and Kam have trained their manufacturers well. The linings are flawless, seams are often French (and overlapped edging that lies flat and wears well) and piping is perfect.

The work is so exemplary, in fact, that two discerning Hawai'i design firms, Anela of O'ahu and Paradise Silks of Maui, are now working with Nouvelle to have their lines sewn by the China manufacturers.

While the first collection at Nouvelle was mainly fitted styles, featuring sexy bustiers, princess seamed vests and short, tight, slit skirts, they are about to take delivery of their holiday collection with more figure-forgiving silhouettes. One ensemble is a camp shirt with Capri pants; another a long bias-cut dress with a floating, romantic chiffon short caftan for graceful coverage. Chinese pajamas, cheongsam, boxer shorts and kimonos (all silk) receive unusual treatments.

The hand painting motifs change several times a year. The upcoming holiday collection includes butterflies, fans, adorable Chinese keiki and a palm and orchid tropical print. Colors are uncommonly beautiful: coral, turquoise, sky blue and seafoam green. The price range for Nouvelle women's wear is $30 to $328. Sizes run from XS to XL.

Eva Kam, left, and Wei Yang created their own clothing line.

The clothing is complemented by charming handbags for day and/or evening. One looks like a miniature cheongsam; you reach through the mandarin collar to get things out, or unfasten frogs to get at a zippered pocket. The bags range in price from $10 to $48.

True to their original vision, there is something for the home seamstress at Nouvelle: 36 styles of Chinese frogs and racks of unusual fabrics from Italy and the Mainland.

Nouvelle is located at 625 Kapahulu Boulevard, behind Starbucks, where Keo's used to be. Information: 735-0088.

Christina von Fieandt

Christina von Fieandt, formerly Anna Christina, is well known for her couture line crafted from ribbons woven together to create fabric yardage. Although von Fieandt was raised in Finland and trained in the House of Balmain in Paris, she has lived in the Islands for 30 years, and it was lauhala weaving that inspired her woven creations.

Her craftsmanship — invisible zippers, welt pockets, bound buttonholes, boning — has made her a popular designer with celebrities, socialites and beauty queens. However the intense labor and expensive materials placed von Fieandt's prices out of reach of many women.

Now that has changed. She has designed a collection using elegant satin polyester prints inspired by her ribbon couture. And they are far more affordable. Her first group consists of two brilliant colorways: blues inspired by the ocean and vibrant reds reminiscent of tropical florals.

Not straying far from her original intent, von Fieandt designed the prints to look like her woven ribbons. They have the practicality of polyester (yes, they're washable) but the look of luxe silk. While her couture collection pieces begin at $200, the new prints range in price from $78 to $139. Sizes are S, M and L.

For the first time, von Fieandt is also offering a unisex aloha shirt. It comes in blues and reds, and works equally well for men with a pair of tailored slacks or for women, over a little tank tied at the waist, or as a "jacket."

Von Fieandt's designs are available in her new boutique in the Hyatt Regency Waikiki, on the garden level across from Gucci. The boutique also carries costume jewelry and handbags to complement the designer's clothing.

Information: 923-2192.