Dining Scene
Lunch Break: Sophisticated lunch at Sansei

By Debra Yuen
TGIF Editor

Despite the takeout containers, lunch from Sansei restaurant at Restaurant Row is more than a cut above lunchwagon ordinaire. Jeff Widener • The Honolulu Advertiser

Some of the offerings could be considered comfort food, such as the plate lunch of "Homemade 'Monster' Meatloaf" with savory onion and mushroom gravy ($5.95). The meatloaf slices were thick and hearty and enough to put even a hungry diner into sleepy bliss. Plate lunches come with white or brown rice, mac salad or Nalo Greens with umeboshi vinaigrette.

Lest we forget the seafood connection, there's the "Big Filet of Blackened Ahi" sandwich ($5.95) — a nice chunk o' fish topped with currant cole slaw and fried onions with lettuce, tomato and onion, on a whole-wheat bun. It was a messy delight, although the 'ahi was a bit overwhelmed by the cole slaw.

Other offerings include salads, from grilled mahimahi with garlic and basil on Nalo Greens to spinach to sort-of Caesars with a variety of toppings (grilled miso chicken, grilled garlic and basil chicken, bay shrimp or seared blackened 'ahi) and several others. These meal-sized salads are $6.95 or $7.95.

Sandwiches — meatloaf, mahi, chicken, sirloin burger, veggie Boca Burger — begin at $4.95, with the exception of a $3.95 tortilla wrap of veggies. Then there are pastas, ramen, sushi, plate lunches from curry to chicken katsu, from turkey to pan-seared 'ahi at prices that will keep you coming back.

Sansei launched the lunch business several weeks ago, and it's been swamped with customers. It's very informal. Follow the signs, order at the counter, where they give you a number to place on your table. Grab some plastic utensils and napkins on your way to the tables, where shared seating awaits. The food is brought to you takeout style (plastic foam containers and sandwich wrap).

Sansei is on the diamondhead end of Restaurant Row, 500 Ala Moana. Lunch hours are 11 a.m.-2 p.m. weekdays. 536-6286.