Little traffic, great challenge await hikers on Lau'ulu Trail
Occasionally we will spotlight a camp site, trail or other hiking information, courtesy of author Richard McMahon.
By Richard McMahon
Special to The Advertiser
The little-known and little-used Lau'ulu Trail is a hidden gem, ideal for hikers who have walked Haleakala's major trails (Sliding Sands, Halemau'u, Kaupo Gap) and are seeking another challenge. The route climbs almost 2,000 feet to the crater rim, follows Kalapawili Ridge for about a mile, then drops back to the crater floor, visiting a lava tube en route.
The trail begins behind the Paliku Cabin in Haleakala National Park on Maui.
From the campground water spigot to the right of the cabin, head upslope on a trail leading toward the crater rim. It may be necessary to do some scouting, as the grass in the meadow grows quickly and may obscure the first part of the trail. It is also possible to intersect the trail from the toilet above the cabin, but this will also require a search. Once located, the trail is easy to follow, although the first hour pushes through heavy brush, including sections of akala (Hawaiian raspberry) and pukiawe.
Once it breaks out into the open, there are fine views of the crater, Kaupo Gap and the Big Island volcanoes. After a short stretch across a small ridge with a depression on the right, the trail begins a long, three-segment switchback, ending at Lau'ulu, on the crater rim. To the northeast, the broad expanse of Kapahulu Valley falls gradually to the sea.
Unfortunately, the valley is usually shrouded in a deep cloud cover.
Turning left (east) along Kalapawili Ridge, there is no longer a trail, but the ridge line is easy to follow. When necessary, contour to the right to avoid rocky outcroppings. As the ridge descends into a long saddle, remain close to the left edge of the ridge, watching for a 3-foot high wooden stake wrapped with a blue ribbon.
About 50 feet farther, an 18-inch, 4x4 post, also wrapped with a blue ribbon, marks the trail back down to the crater floor. Beginning as a switchback, the trail often drops steeply, although there are two places where the trail contours. The route is often faint and takes skill to follow. When in doubt, bear right, and, when they appear, guide on several large, dark brown vents, shaped like rugged cones.
After the second level contour, an open cinder slope reveals a switchback path leading to the vents. The last and largest vent contains a lava tube at its base, (Crystal Cave), with several animal skeletons inside, goats, and a possible mule. Tiny crystals can be seen in the lava walls of the tube, hence the name.
When exiting the tube, continue down the rough slope toward a catchment panel, veering left on a faint, rough trail, which descends to a gulch leading to the crater floor. Staying mostly in the now shallow gulch, detour around the edge of a large a'a field, keeping it on the left, and walking toward the opposite (south) side of the crater. When the gulch intersects the Halemau'u Trail, turn left to return to Paliku Cabin, or right if heading for Holua.
SPECIAL COMMENTS: The Crystal Cave portion of this hike should not be attempted if the crater floor is covered with clouds. The cross-country return route requires good visibility to connect with the Halemau'u Trail. Foggy conditions can cause disorientation in the featureless lava of the crater floor.
