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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, July 4, 2001

Recipes that will appeal to spice lovers

One recipe in Kusuma Cooray's new book is for Creamy Saffron Spinach.

Gregory Yamamoto • The Honolulu Advertiser

Kusuma Cooray's recipes take full advantage of her love of spices. These are from her new book, "Burst of Flavor: The Fine Art of Cooking with Spices," University of Hawai'i Press, paper, $24.95.

Tomato-Lemon Chutney

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon each of the following:

  • Whole cumin seeds, fennel seeds, black mustard seeds, crushed red pepper flakes

  • 1/4 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
  • 4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 1 tablespoon finely shredded ginger
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1/2 cup white vinegar
  • Salt to taste
  • 1 1/2 pounds vine-ripened tomatoes, diced
  • Zest of 2 lemons, cut into fine julienne

Heat oil in nonreactive pan, and on a medium heat, fry cumin, fennel, fenugreek and mustard seeds. When mustard seeds begin to pop, add red pepper flakes, garlic and ginger.Stir over heat for a few seconds. Add sugar, vinegar, and salt to taste; bring to a slow simmer. Stir in tomatoes and cook on low heat for 45 minutes. Add lemon zest julienne and simmer until chutney is thick. Cool, pour into sterilized jars, cover and refrigerate. Keeps up to one month. Yield: 1 pint.

Deviled Shrimp

  • 1 pound shrimp
  • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 2 yellow onions, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 1 bulb lemongrass, crushed
  • 1 sprig of curry leaves
  • 1 teaspoon each garlic and ginger, minced
  • 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 3 tablespoons tamarind juice
  • 2 teaspoons light brown sugar
  • Salt to taste

Peel and devein shrimp. Heat oil, add onion, lemongrass and curry leaves, and sautÚ until onion turns golden brown. Add garlic, ginger, spices, tamarind juice, brown sugar and salt to taste. Cook 6-8 minutes on low heat, stirring to avoid burning the spices. Add shrimp and fold to combine with the spicy onion mixture. Cook on high heat for 3-4 minutes. Remove and discard lemongrass. Serve hot or at room temperature. Yield: 6-8 servings.

Stuffed Baked Tomatoes
(Served over a bed of creamy saffron spinach)

  • 2 cups water
  • 4 medium-size vine-ripened tomatoes
  • 2 cups ice water
  • For stuffing:
  • 1 cup paneer (recipe follows)
  • 1/2 teaspoon each grated ginger and garlic
  • 1 tablespoon chopped green onion
  • 1 tablespoon chopped roasted pine nuts
  • Salt to taste
  • Freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • For baking: 1 tablespoon olive oil

Boil 2 cups water, add tomatoes, cook for 20 seconds and then place tomatoes in ice water for 5 minutes. Make a cut at the bottom of each tomato and pull the skin up toward the stem ends. Using the skin, form a rose shape around the stem. Cut a slice off each tomato with the rose still intact; set aside to use as the garnish.

Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees. Scoop out the pulp of the cut tomatoes; place cut side down on a plate to drain off excess juice.Mix ingredients for stuffing with salt and black pepper to taste; fill tomato shells and place in an ovenproof casserole dish. Drizzle with olive oil and bake in the pre-heated oven for 10 minutes.

Spoon creamy saffron spinach on plates. Place stuffed tomatoes on spinach and top with a tomato skin rose. Yield: 4 servings.

Paneer

  • 1/2 gallon whole milk
  • 3 tablespoons strained lemon juice

Place milk in a 3-quart, heavy-bottomed saucepan on high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 25 minutes, stirring often.Gradually add lemon juice and, using a metal spoon, very slowly stir clockwise. When strands of curd form and separate from whey (in about 20 to 30 seconds), remove from heat and set aside for 4-5 minutes.

Line a colander with a double layer of damp cheesecloth and place over a container. Slowly pour curds and whey into the colander. Gather edges of cheesecloth and twist into a topknot to loosely enclose curd. Hold under running cold water and allow water to run through the curd. Twist the cheesecloth topknot to press out as much liquid as possible. Place cheesecloth-wrapped curd on a plate, place another plate on the curd and weight it down with an unopened food can for 2 hours. Remove weight and open cheesecloth.

Unwrap; the curd will be gathered into a ball of soft cheese. Place on a work surface, and with the palm of your hand, knead the cheese for about 5-6 minutes. (Use a scraper to scrape cheese from work surface while kneading.)

Use as called for in recipes. To refrigerate, form into a flat round shape and wrap in cheesecloth. Keeps well for 2-3 days in a refrigerator.

Creamy Saffron Spinach

  • 2 bunches spinach leaves
  • Salt to taste
  • Freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • Pinch of saffron threads
  • 1 tablespoon hot water
  • 1/2 cup heavy cream
  • Pinch of grated nutmeg

Remove stems and heavy midribs from spinach without breaking leaves. Wash in several changes of fresh cool water, moving leaves around to free them of sand and dirt. Drain leaves in colander and spin dry.

Place spinach in sautÚ pan; cook on high heat for about 2 minutes, turning with tongs. Move spinach to the side and reduce juices partially, about 3 minutes. Stir in salt and black pepper to taste. Add saffron to 1 tablespoon hot water in a cup. Add saffron water and cream to the spinach. Grate nutmeg over spinach, stir and bring to slow simmer. Serve hot. Yield: 4 servings.

Pork Vindaloo

  • 2-2 1/2 pounds pork shoulder, fat removed
  • Marinade: 6 dried hot red chilies or 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
  • 1/2 cup cider vinegar
  • 1/2 cup hot water
  • 3 shallots
  • 1 tablespoon chopped ginger
  • 4 garlic cloves
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon turmeric
  • 1/4 teaspoon each ground cinnamon, ground cloves, ground nutmeg
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin

For cooking:

  • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 2 large yellow onions, peeled and finely chopped
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
  • 2 teaspoons tamarind juice
  • Salt to taste

Cut pork in 1-inch cubes and place in a stainless steel container.

For the marinade, soak chilies in vinegar and hot water for 30 minutes. In a blender, blend soaked chilies, shallots, ginger, garlic and spices to a smooth puree, and pour on the pork. Mix and leave to marinate for 2-2 1/2 hours.

For cooking, heat oil in a heavy-bottomed stainless steel pan and add onions; sautÚ on medium heat to a light gold color. Add sugar and stir until caramelized, about 2 minutes. Drain meat from marinade and add to the caramelized onion. Sear on high heat. Add liquid from the marinade, tamarind juice, and salt to taste. Stir to combine. Turn heat to low, cover pan, and simmer 45-50 minutes. Cool and refrigerate to use the following day. Yield: 6-7 servings.