Dining Scene
Trip down Wai'alae cures sweet-tooth craving

By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic

JJ French Pastry tantalizes customers with its visually appealing and equally appetizing desserts, including a green tea pastry, top. Also at the Wai'alae shop are, from left, the teardrop-shaped iced drop framboise, the tutti fruity and the strawberry shortcake. Eugene Tanner • The Honolulu Advertiser

JJ French Pastry

3447 Wai'alae Ave.

739-0993

Monday-Thursday: 9 a.m.-7 p.m.

Friday, Saturday: 9 a.m.-9 p.m.

I was driving around the other day and all of a sudden I had a hankering for something wicked. Out of the corner of my eye I saw the words "French Pastry" painted on a shop window. This would be the cure for my Kaimuki sweet tooth.

JJ French Pastry is owned and operated by Praseuth Luangkhot, aka "JJ," a native of Laos who learned his craft at the legendary Maxim's in New York City. He was given the job of an ice cream scooper alongside renowned pastry chef Jean Marc Burillier, who eventually took JJ under his wing.

Years later, and after a brief run in 'Aiea, Luangkhot moved his pastry shop to its present location in March 1999. It is a cozy and cool space, with a smattering of blue tables and some colorful French artwork. I "ooohhh'd" and "ahhhh'd" my way into a pastry tizzy, unsure of which sweet yummies to sample, but my index finger prevailed, happily declaring my intentions one at a time.

JJ's signature item, the chocolate pyramid ($4.25), is truffle-like in its richness, a bittersweet chocolate mousse with only a hint of chocolate Genoise cake at its base, dusted with cocoa powder. For $3.75, you can have the version with fresh raspberries added to the pyramid. Fortunately, you need not be an archaeologist to enjoy the excavation of these gifts from the pastry gods.

Keeping with the raspberry-themed flavor are the teardrop-shaped iced drop framboise ($3.25). Other creamy delicacies are the green tea choice ($3.25), quite remarkable, as are the banana haupia ($3.25), marrons au rum (chestnut flavored, $3.25) and the tiramisu ($2.75).

Fruit tarts here have a chewy and flaky crushed almond crust at their base. The chunky apple walnut tart, poached pear in red wine tart and the plum tart ($3.25 each) are a fruit lover's dream.

Everything here will satisfy your sweet tooth, whether you're a fan of the creamy, chewy, nutty or fruity.æJJ has developed a way to create light and very satisfying desserts without being too sweet. His creations are as visually appealing as any you're likely to see anywhere.

Cafe Laufer

3365 Wai'alae Ave.

735-7717

Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, Thursday: 8 a.m.-10 p.m.

Friday, Saturday: 8 a.m.-11 p.m.

Cafe Laufer has quite a following, too.æMy favorite here is the elegantly rich Linzer torte. The crust is made from ground almonds, fresh butter, grated lemon rind and spices, spread with raspberry jam and topped with a lattice of crust.æThe Black Forest torte ($4) is another chocolate cake concoction, flavored with sour cherries and whipped cream. The chocolate macadamia nut tart ($4) is a dense and nutty treat. Other specialties here include bread pudding, carrot cake, peach torte ($4 each) and so much more.

Sconee's Bakery

1117 12th Ave.

734-4024

Monday-Saturday: 6:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m.

Sunday: 7:30 a.m.-2 p.m.

Sconee's is turning out dense, rich, flaky and buttery scones at $1.65 each. The choices are raisin, blueberry, apple, chocolate chip and almond. These scones may be the best in town.

Yu Dessert House

3506 Wai'alae Ave.

732-9992

Daily: 10 a.m.-11:30 p.m.

On a hot day when you want a refreshing sweet drink, Yu's creates a selection of tapioca pearl teas with milk, various fruit juices, coffees, floats, shave ice and milkshakes.

Le Bon Pain

3057 Wai'alae Ave.

739-2539

Monday-Saturday:æ6:30 a.m.-8 p.m.

Sunday: 6:30 a.m.-7 p.m.

Here's an interesting place with a local Asian flair. It offers several varieties of rolls and croissants, as well as fresh-baked bread, including loaves of sweet potato. But where it excels is with the stuffed-bun items such as the frank Danish (yes, a hotdog!), creamy croquette bun and the very good (especially when warmed in the oven) sweet and savory curry donut ($1.25 each).

I know a lot of people simply grab a bar of chocolate when those hard-to-control sweet cravings strike, but these places aim to please with their freshly baked goods, from fancy to simple.

Send comments, questions, and suggestions to ChefMatthew@LoveLife.com