Dining Scene
Festive Cisco's Mexican fare has local touches
By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic
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| Margaritas, chicken chimichangas (left) and shrimp tamales in a cilantro cream sauce are star entrees at Cisco's Cantina, a restaurant that also uses kalua pig creatively.
Gregory Yamamoto • The Honolulu Advertiser Cisco's cantina 123 Hekili St., Kailua 262-7337 Mondays-Thursdays: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays: 11:30 a.m.-11p.m. Sundays: 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.
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So there we were, Miss A and me, dipping our chips into the fresh (but a bit tame) salsa. If you want more of a kick, just ask for the high-octane version, which contains the added zing of crushed red chile flakes and chipotle pepper sauce.We wondered what the noise we were hearing was; figuring out that the ice machine must be old and/or ailing; it contributes a bit more sound to the room that you could easily do without. But, I had work to do ...
Definitely order a side of creamy and chunky guacamole ($1.95) and, if you possess a big appetite, some of their Mexican munchies.The nacho grande de Cisco ($11.50, half-order $9.50) looked to be a popular starter for many. It's a massive treat — chips topped with cheese, beans, tomatoes, olives, onions, sour cream, guacamole — and your choice of shredded beef, chicken or ground beef. Next time I visit I will have my sights set on their crab nachos ($14.50, $12.50 for half-order).
A mom-and-pop operation, Cisco's is held together by Martha Harding and Greg Blotsky, an amiable and talented team.Their previous professional backgrounds sound like the stuff a liberal arts degree is crafted from.Greg is a New York native who combined his love of cooking with his marketing and management skills. Martha, originally from Iowa and Wisconsin, once worked as an entertainer, and also once sold shoes to the most famous footwear-lover in the world, Imelda Marcos. She hates to cook but loves to eat. Together, they make you feel welcomed in their Kailua casa.
Have you ever wondered why Mexican food seems almost addictive or habit-forming?Over the years, studies have shown that ingestion of chile peppers releases endorphins in the brain.Endorphins are those magical chemical compounds that are behind the scenes when you feel euphoria, fear, and even love.They also are our naturally occurring pain killers. So when the heat in your mouth signals your brain that something painful may be happening, endorphin reactions kick in, producing a small drug-like effect that creates an overall feeling of pleasure. For some reason I do not find the same effect to be present in other chile-laced cuisines such as Korean, Szechuan or Indian, science notwithstanding.
Cisco's uses kalua pig in many of its dishes, adding a decidedly Hawaiian flavoring component to their food. It's quite good; however, be advised that when ordering a pork-filled tamale, it won't be the traditional flavor. I enjoy chiles rellenos (roasted and stuffed mild green peppers) and always order them as a measuring stick for Mexican restaurants. Here you can get a few different kinds; the traditional style with cheese filling ($10.95 for two, $8.95 for one), crab-filled with a creamy verde sauce ($14.95, $12.95), or stuffed with kalua pig and grilled red onions ($12.95, $10.95).They passed the relleno test with flying colors.
The shredded beef here is delicious.It's difficult to describe, but it's tender and flavorful. Try it as a filling for your taco plate ($7.95 for two, $5.95 for one) that comes with no-lard refried beans and Mexican rice.You can also get the fish tacos ($9.95, $7.95) filled with lightly fried mahimahi, jack cheese, tomatoes, and guacamole in a flour tortilla. The bullfighter tacos ($10.95, $8.95) are grilled marinated beef or chicken, rolled up in a large flour tortilla.
A fairly large menu of standard Mexican offerings here includes different types of burritos, chimichangas (fried burritos), enchiladas, fajitas and quesadillas, one of the mainstays of Mexico's street vendors, considered to be quintessentially Mexican. In reality, most of these items are hybrid creations, so to speak, half indigenous and half a blend of styles and cultures.And for those who want something different, I am told their baby back ribs ($16.25) are huge, grilled, tender, smokey and award-winning meaty treats.
Cisco's is a friendly and festive place, and is definitely worth a visit.
Send comments and questions to: ChefMatthew@LoveLife.com
