Starting off with a few simple steps may be best

By Paula Rath
Advertiser Staff Writer

Bruce Mills, a dermatologist at the Honolulu Medical Group, is a realist. He knows few men will put much time or effort into caring for their skin. That's why he suggests a simple two-step approach to his male patients: a mild cleanser and daily use of sunscreen. "Most males are willing to go through with at least that," he said.

"There's a lot of latitude for personal choice in cleansers — a bar, liquid or lotion cleanser will do," he said. About sunscreen, he's more specific: It should have an SPF of at least 15 and should contain parsol 1789 (also known as avobenzone) with UVA and UVB protection. A good alternative is a sunscreen with titanium dioxide, but Mills said men don't always like these because they are visible, leaving a white sheen.

Mills said more men are seeking medical help for their skin. "More men are wanting to do facial rejuvenation. This is no longer the exclusive domain of the female. More males are using glycolic acid products and topical retinoids, even facial peels," he said. Ten to 15 percent of his chemical peel patients are men. It is mainly the younger men who are interested in preventing skin problems, he said.

Ampy Santiago of Ampy's Day Spa in Ala Moana attributes the recent rapid growth in her business to men. She reports that in 2000, men constituted 10 percent of her business; during the first half of 2001, the percentage is closer to 40. Her male customers usually request a "gentleman's facial," which is the same as her European facial for women. "There are often couples who come in to get pampered together," she said. "We have several couples coming in every day."

Santiago recommends a three-step regimen:

• Thorough cleansing day and night.
• Gel eye cream (she warned that the eyes are the first part of the face to age).
• Light gel moisturizer with sunscreen of SPF 15 or higher.

Her best-selling product for men is Tinted Moisturizer for Men by Dr. Gross.