Dining Scene
High-end Japanese, served with whimsy
By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic
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| This combination, called Tasting Menu, includes lobster motoyaki, beef tenderloin, sashimi, tempura etc. Tokyo Tokyo is in the Kahala Mandarin Oriental Hawaii hotel.
Gregory Yamamoto • The Honolulu Advertiser • • • Tokyo Tokyo Kahala Mandarin Oriental Hawaii hotel Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sunday-Friday Dinner: 5:30-10:30 p.m. nightly 739-1500
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The owner, Kumi Iseki, has created what some would call her jewel-in-the-crown restaurant, adding to her existing places, Wasabi Bistro and Moshi Moshi Tei.æMy favorite eatery of hers was the aggressively creative and short-lived Kumi's Bistro in Waikiki.
Starters are plentiful here.æA fine cold one is the refreshing tofu salad ($7.50) that combines large chunks of soft tofu with mixed greens and juicy red tomato slices in a light flavorful dressing, topped with dried shaved bonito.æGoma ae ($4.75) is one of my favorite spinach dishes; steamed lightly, cooled and tossed with a sesame sauce. Kimpira ($4.75, also called burdock root) is a popular crunchy veggie dish, and of course there are several sashimi starters such as yellowtail ($15), tuna ($15) and salmon ($12).
Hot starters include Kumi's special ($8.50) — two pieces of baked halibut, crab meat and avocado, topped with a glazed mayo layer. Baked seafood items have become fairly common these days in many Japanese restaurants. Another is called dynamite ($8.75) and equates to a dish of baked scallops.æThe deep-fried crispy flounder ($12) was beautifully prepared, with the flesh artfully arranged in bite-sized pieces over the scooped-out fish. It was served with two sauces; one was ponzu-like (slightly vinegary), and the other a touch on the sweeter side, similar to a tempura sauce. Speaking of tempura, the shrimp and vegetable version ($11) looked nice, but the shrimp was dry.æThe avocado tempura ($5) was quite enjoyable; contrasting crunchy fried batter and the soft, buttery richness of avocado.
My favorite hot starter here is the nasu dengaku ($7), which is a grilled half eggplant stuffed with a sweet miso topping.æEvery bit of the eggplant, including the crackling-chewy skin, was scarfed down. It's a great appetizer, worthy of a plate licking. Other worthy dishes are the chawan mushi (steamed egg custard), $7; two skewers of yakitori, $5.50; and the miso beef katsu, $10.
Specialty sushi rolls were invented for those of us who don't love raw fish. The Miyoko mama ($12.50) is a California roll (crab, avocado, cucumber) topped with anago (eel).æThe rainbow roll ($12.50) is another that has the California roll at its base, this time wrapped with various sashimi filets.æThe soft-shell crab roll ($12.50) takes the fried sea beasty and rolls it up sushi style. The dynamite spicy roll ($9.25) comes with a warning on the menu, but to add so much burning heat to a delicately flavored food like raw tuna seems to defeat the purpose. Another oddball "sushi" combination is called the Philadelphia roll ($10.50), combining salmon and cream cheese.
Dinner entrees are served with a 'nalo greens salad, kobachi, steamed rice, miso soup, and oshinko (pickled cabbage). The black cod misoyaki ($26.50) was soft and tender, the una juu ($25.50) is steamed rice topped with grilled eel, and the beef tenderloin ($35) lived up to its billing, accompanied by ginger and mustard sauce. There's even a touch of the whimsical here — a lobster chop suey ($36.75).
Tableside preparations of standards such as sukiyaki ($29.75), yosenabe ($32.50) and shabu-shabu ($32.50) are available. A tasting menu ($45) and a special nine-course meal ($75 and up) also await all you high rollers out there.æ
The lunch menu offers some nice combinations in addition to a scaled-down version of the menu.æThe daily special bento ($15.75) changes daily according to the chef's desire, the east west special ($19.75) combines California roll, Kumi's special, pork katsu sandwich, chicken karaage, miso soup, and fruit.
Tokyo Tokyo presents itself as eye candy, making for a pricey encounter. The service is excellent, the staff is professional and the food is good. If someone offers to take you here, say yes, dress up and have a good time.
Send comments or questions to: ChefMatthew@LoveLife.com
