To see the Garden Isle , you'll need to rent a car

By Jan TenBruggencate
Advertiser Kauaëi Bureau

The Menehune Fish Pond is a tourist attraction near Lihue. The pond was created by cutting off an elbow of the Hule'ia River. Jan TenBruggencate • The Honolulu Advertiser

The bus service is useful and might work for you, but it has its limitations in terms of both time and routes.

There are three options for the penny-and-poundwise visitor:

• Wander the Lihu'e area.
• Head west.
• Head north.

Lihu'e

Around Lihu'e, consider visiting the Kaua'i Museum and perhaps Grove Farm Homestead Museum. View the Menehune or Alakoko Fishpond, a massive inland pond constructed by cutting off an elbow of the Hule'ia River.

In Puhi, wander the grounds of Kilohana, an old plantation manager's estate, the home now renovated and the grounds kept beautifully. You can take a horse-drawn carriage ride here.

Head east

In the Koloa region, if you like Hawai'i architecture of the 1930s, check out the brand new Hyatt Regency Kaua'i Hotel, built with period design. It also features fine Hawaiian artifacts and artwork scattered through its public areas.

Shop for trinkets with the vendors at the county's Spouting Horn Beach Park.

In Kalaheo, take a left at the light and a right into the Kukuiolono Park, where the views out over the southern slopes of the island are stunning, and there are some interesting statuary and semi-formal gardens.

Leaving Kalaheo, take a left on Halewili Road and drive through miles of coffee fields. Watch for the green, plantation-style buildings that mark the Kaua'i Coffee shop and museum. Taste some free coffee samples and learn a little about the coffee industry.

In Hanapepe, a left turn takes you out to Burns Field, the Port Allen airport and Salt Pond Beach Park. Between them are the ancient salt pans, still used today in summer to produce Hawaiian salt.

There's not much chance to learn about the sugar industry now that there are just two plantations left in the state. The remaining Kaua'i plantation, Gay & Robinson, offers a visitor center with exhibits that can be viewed for free, as well as tours. Take a left in the village of Kaumakani at Kaumakani Avenue, the street shaded by monkeypods and lit by 1930s street lamps, and look for the visitor center on the left.

Watch for the Capt. James Cook statue in Waimea town, and if you're ready for a cold one, visit the brewpub at Waimea Plantation Cottages near the west end of town.

From here you can go out to the long beaches starting at Kekaha, or uphill to the Waimea Canyon lookouts and Koke'e. If you go up the mountain, be sure to stop at the Koke'e Natural History Museum near the park headquarters.

Head north

On the trip from Lihu'e north, you might want to try a $15 boat ride up to the Fern Grotto, a favorite for newlyweds and something you must do once.

The Kaua'i Historical Society provides historical tours of Kapa'a town.

Drive north and take time to pull aside at overlooks and vistas, whether formal or not. In Kilauea town, turn right and visit the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, where seabirds roost and are wheeling overhead all day long.

Across the Kalihiwai Bridge, watch for a right turn to 'Anini, a beautiful coastline with a great snorkeling reef. Or just relax and watch the boardsailors do the work.

In Hanalei, visit the historic Hanalei Pier, and take a walk to the end for wonderful views of the anchored yachts in summer and the impressive mountains any time.

Beyond Hanalei, if there's room to stop your car, wander down to Lumaha'i Beach, where Mitzi Gaynor washed that man right out of her hair in the movie "South Pacific." If there's surf, stay out of the water. The North Shore is dangerous when the seas are running.

At the end of the road, the lagoon at Ke'e Beach is normally protected by a reef. If you make it this far, pull on your walking shoes and head up the Kalalau Trail, even if only to the stunning lookout a quarter-mile in.

If you go

In Lihue:

• Kaua'i Museum (open daily except Sunday, first Saturday of month is free)
• Grove Farm Homestead Museum (245-3202, reservations required)
• Gay & Robinson, offers a visitor center with exhibits that can be viewed for free, as well as a field and factory tour that runs 2 hours for $30 per person. For information call 335-2824.

Parts east:

• Get to Koke'e State Park and hike your heart out for free. Pick up a hiking guide book for routes and tips.
• Walk the miles-long beach from Kekaha toward Barking Sands. Sunsets are terrific.

Parts north:

• Fern Grotto: Boats go every half-hour starting at 9 a.m. Call Smith's Motor Boat Service at 821-6892 or Waialeale Boat Tours at 822-4908.
• Kaua'i Historical Society: historical tours of Kapa'a town at 10 a.m. Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays from a small shop across from the cemetery in town. Call 821-1778 for reservations.

Kaua'i tips

To ride: The Kaua'i Bus doesn't run to the airport, but you can catch it in Lihue, and it goes to Kekaha on the west side of the island and Hanalei on the north. Fare is $1. It does not run into the mountains to Koke'e Park or to the end of the road at Ke'e Beach. For information about specific routes and times call Kaua'i Bus (808) 241-6410.

To Stay: Richard Sugiyama's KK Bed & Bath ($35 or $50 couple units in Kapa'a), part of a complex of historic buildings. E-mail: kkbedbath@aloha.net; (www.aloha.net/~sugi/b&b.html) or call (808) 822-7348 .

• The state cabins at Koke'e are booked well in advance, but weekdays often are available on shorter notice ($35-$45), rented through Koke'e Lodge. (808) 335-6061.
• Camp at county beach park at Ha'ena or 'Anini. County Division of Parks and Recreation (808) 241-6670.
• Camp at a state park: Use caution if you stay at Polihale State Beach Park or any isolated park, as thugs sometimes prey on campers. In the mountains, at near 3,500 feet elevation at Koke'e State Park, there's camping available. Division of State Parks on Kaua'i (808) 274-3444.

To do: Rent a kayak and do the Hanalei, Kalihiwai, Wailua or Hule'a rivers. Kayak Kaua'i, (808) 826-9844, $26 for single kayak, put it on your car and take it to your paddling place; Aloha Canoes and Kayaks, 246-6804, kamaaina rate $40/double with dry bag, use it in the Hule'ia River, Menehune Fishpond area.

• Check out the scenery at Kalapaki Beach in the Nawiliwili area. The scenes: canoes, surfing, sailing, people-watching, cruise ships and barges passing by.
• Combine dinner with the Princeville Ranch Stables sunset wagon ride $68/person, wagon ride tour to bluff overlooking 'Anini reef, appetizers, barbecue dinner, live music. (808) 826-1677.

To Eat: For lunch, try plate lunch places. In the Lihue area, there's Joni Hana in the Kukui Grove Shopping Center, Keoki's in the Lihue Industrial Park Phase II, Puhi Fish and Catering across from the Puhi gas station.

• The famous Hamura Saimin, on Kress Street, off Rice Street in Lihue, has fantastic noodle soup. The extra large is still just $4.
• In Kapa'a, stop for sushi and picnic supplies at Pono Market.
• Duane's Ono Burger on the main highway in Anahola, next to the store and post office. Great (big) burgers.
• Tropical Taco, in the Halelea Building next to Hanalei Liquor in Hanalei, a North Shore tradition, now in a permanent location instead of a van. Wonderful burritos, tostadas, tacos. Park in rear.

On the south and west side:

• Taqueria Nortenos, Mexican takeout. Cheap, a surfer's and beachgoer's delight. Next to Kukui'ula Market on Koloa Road.
• Camp House Grill, a good deal for a good breakfast, just west of the light, on the mauka side of the highway in Kalaheo. The pies are good, too.
• Green Garden Restaurant in Hanapepe, just west of the fire station on the main highway. A Kaua'i tradition, hidden among the trees, shrubs and flowers.
• Wrangler's Restaurant, across from Big Save in Waimea. Reasonable dinners in a Hawaiian wild west setting.