Island Style
More Island women sewing designs from small independents

By Paula Rath
Advertiser Staff Writer

Sharon Nakasone of Moanalua grew up using the patterns of big companies like Simplicity, McCall's and Vogue. However, in recent years she has decided that small, independent pattern companies better meet her needs.

Sharon Nakasone models a Soft 'n Bound vest she made from a pattern by L.J. Designs. She used bias strips of cotton fabric. Photos by Gregory Yamamoto, photo illustration by Stephen Downes • The Honolulu Advertiser

Shelly Caldwell of Mililani, president of the Hawai'i chapter of the American Sewing Guild, said she stopped using McCall's and Simplicity patterns because too much altering is needed. "It becomes humbug. The garments don't come out."

Since alterations require a great deal of skill, and few seamstresses have learned how to do them, the movement to buy from independent pattern companies is afoot among Hawai'i women who sew.

What's the difference?ÊIsland seamstresses say the larger firms seem to be locked into a stick-straight fit model they've used for 50 years. The new pattern makers are basing their fitting standards on the woman of the new millennium, and their grading (sizing) techniques are much improved.

For example, Caldwell appreciates patterns by Connie Crawford, who worked for one of the large pattern companies and then decided to go out on her own, because they fit well without any alterations. "She specializes in plus-size patterns. They run from 1X up. So when she says a pattern is size 24, it really fits a size 24 woman."

Even the bust and armholes, often problem areas, fit well. "So if you make a garment from one of her patterns, you're not gonna be disappointed." At the cost of fabric today, this is not merely a matter of frustration, but also of economics.

Caldwell also likes Victoria Jones patterns, a collection of mu'umu'u and vintage aloha wear that filled the void when Pauloa Patterns closed. "I made mu'umu'u No. 103 and it was nicely designed and fit really well without alterations. Her instructions are good, too. If you're a beginning sewer you might need all those instructions." Another favorite is Jones' traditional holoku pattern.

Elizabeth Young of Kaimuki suggests that you try to take a seminar with the person who designed the patterns. "Then it's easier to understand. Otherwise it can be hard to follow on your own." Although she has been sewing for 30 years, she still attends American Sewing Guild meetings and seminars and, she said, she always learns something.

	To find patterns
•	Sadly, few independent patterns are available in Hawai'i. But patterns are easily ordered over the Internet, and the Web sites make the options and sizing quite clear.
•	Connie Crawford
•	Diane Ericson
•	Lois Ericson
•	La Fred
•	Victoria Jones: Kaimuki Dry Goods
•	Kimura Patterns
•	Pauline Kunimune: On O'ahu at Kuni Island Fabrics; Maui at Sew Special; Kau'ai at Kapa'a Stitchery
•	L.J. Designs
•	Paw Prints
•	The Sewing Workshop

Both Nakasone and Dian Kaneshiro of Makiki, a respected sewing instructor, wearable artist and quilter, swear by Lois Ericson's patterns, but admit they're not for everyone. "I have used many, if not all, of her patterns, but she's not a real construction person. They are not for the novice. She might offer too many options when someone just wants to make a simple garment," Kaneshiro said.

Nakasone was introduced to independent patterns at a seminar taught by Lois Ericson. "I love her ideas and what she does with basic patterns. But they're cut large so a petite woman like myself will probably have to modify the armholes, length and shoulders."

Diane Ericson, Lois's daughter, has also introduced a line of patterns. Nakasone and Kaneshiro find these are easier to follow than the elder Ericson's.

Kaneshiro is a fan of Lyla Messinger of L.J. Designs. "The illustrations on the envelopes of her patterns show women of three sizes, from a 20 to an 8," so the seamstress can get a better idea of how the garment will look on her body.

Nakasone has had good results with La Fred patterns. "Her lines are simple and the construction notes are easy to follow. The illustration on the envelope looks complicated, but it isn't. It's classic and elegant." Her favorites? The Cassandra skirt and Thalia pants, both of which she said are flattering and figure-forgiving.

Patterns from The Sewing Workshop have also worked well for Nakasone. "I made their 'Bamboo Top' with pieced fabrics and people adore it. They tell me I should make more."

	To learn more
•	To learn more about the American Sewing Guild Hawai'i chapter, an organization that provides educational events, e-mail Shelly Caldwell.

She has just completed a book called "Art to Wear with Asian Flair" that is with the publisher. She also has a line of 15 patterns, including jackets, vests and handbags. She drafts the patterns and has them printed by McCall's pattern company.

Jeannie Yoshida of Bernina Hawaii has tried several of Kimura's patterns. "They're fun patterns with easy to follow instructions. They're loose-fitting so there are few fitting problems you might come across."

Kimura said she sizes her patterns according to her own body: "petite and not thin. Sewers and quilters seem to have bodies like mine, so it works."

Her patterns are simple styles that allow for creative embellishments like piecing, quilting, Chinese knots and appliques. "Everyone wants Asian things, so I've had to do a lot of that lately," she said.

Pauline Kunimune,who retired from ownership of Kuni Dry Goods, also specializes in Asian-inspired patterns.

Her collection's "purpose is to keep some of the old things our first-generation people (Japanese) brought over with them." She translated some patterns and instructions from the Japanese, as well as drafting from scratch.

Caldwell opined that the home sewing industry seems to be moving toward quilts and away from garments: "Walls and beds don't have busts or change their shape. You don't waste fabric and time when you make a quilt."

Perhaps if more seamstresses try independent patterns, they will feel encouraged to make more of their own garments once again.