Riding a natural high
By Michael Tsai
Advertiser Staff Writer
It's a fact: Very few people actually stand up the first time they try to surf.
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Countdown: The top 10 games we play
For most, Surf Lesson No. 1 is humility, the realization that life on land does little to prepare us for the unpredictability of the ocean.
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Yet, every year thousands find it in themselves to stick with it. Through hard knocks and hard splashes they come to understand what it takes to catch and hold a wave. They learn the oft-unspoken but fiercely defended protocols that govern prized surf spots. And as the experience reshapes their minds and bodies, they often find they have become part of something larger.
Surfing is a high-skill sport, and, "it's about the spirit and the challenge, the communion with nature," according to Jeff Deininger, health and fitness coordinator for the YMCA.
"With surfing, there is sense of place and a sense of belonging to a community," said Angela Wagner, project manager for the state Department of Health's Health Promotion and Education Branch and coordinator of Kaho'omiki, the Hawai'i Council on Physical Activity. "If you're a surfer, that's something you can identify with forever. You become part of a group, in a very positive sense."
Concerns about cost, safety and the level of skill needed to participate in the sport prevented us from ranking surfing higher on our list of the top outdoor activities in Hawai'i. However, the health benefits — mental and physical — as well as the historical and cultural significance of surfing in the Islands cannot be understated.
"It's a 'high' sport," said Jeff Deininger, health and fitness coordinator for the YMCA. "There's an exhilaration involved that you don't get with other activities. It's about the spirit and the challenge, the communion with nature."
Deininger said his concerns lie with what he calls "the uncontrollables."
The good: Surfing is the quintessential Island way to get fit and enjoy the natural environment. The bad: Even experienced surfers are vulnerable to dangerous ocean conditions. Also, the cost of buying a new board can be steep. Watch out for: Dangerous sea conditions, reefs, sharks, jellyfish, sun exposure, other ocean users. Getting started: Surfing lessons are the safest and, perhaps, most efficient way to get some practical experience. But they can be costly. If you know someone who surfs, tagging along might be a better option. Whatever you decide, don't go out alone. It's also a good idea to stick to areas with gentler waves and lots of fellow beginners. It's not unheard of for clumsy novices to be chased out, even assaulted, at more advanced spots. The last word: "It's like sex," said Jesse Robello of Kapahulu. "Even a junk day of surfing is still pretty good."
"It's a high-skill sport, and you have to know how to react to the ocean," he said. "You have to be aware of what lies beneath."
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Breakdown
While surfing is a viable, enjoyable activity for people of all ages — keiki to kupuna — the learning curve can be steep and some physical conditioning is necessary.
"In some ways, learning how to surf is just not very enjoyable," Wagner said. "You can go out four times and never stand up. But once you have the skills, you maintain it. The body remembers."
Surfers often end up paddling several miles over the course of a single session, thereby developing strong arms, backs and shoulders. In general, smaller boards sustain less momentum and therefore require more effort in paddling.
"The paddling can be killer," Deininger said. "You see a lot of beginners get totally wasted out there then struggle to get back to shore. It's important to know your limitations."
While the lower body does not get as strenuous a workout, it does take well-developed feet, legs and hips, as well as strong back and abdominal muscles, to maintain balance and maneuver the board.
"Surfing is something you can thoroughly enjoy at any age," said Dennis Chai, a professor of kinesiology and leisure science at the University of Hawai'i. "You just need to know the ocean and your own capabilities. You need to know how to minimize the danger."
