Variation of traditional gumbo keeps rich flavor, loses the fat

Associated Press

The traditional Louisiana gumbo didn't win its fame as a health food item. However, some reformulation can work wonders. Tasty versions, including vegetarian options, of this soupy dish are possible, to keep gumbos' rich "mouth feel" and smoky flavor, while eliminating less desirable characteristics.

Such reworking of gumbo has been done by nutritionists at the American Institute for Cancer Research, based in Washington, D.C.

"Gumbos have a reputation for being high in calories and fat," says Melanie Polk, the institute's director of nutrition education. "But Louisiana cuisine includes traditional gumbos that are good for our health and our waistlines, as well as our taste buds. Other gumbos can easily be modified to be more healthful."

Polk spells out three ways to a healthier gumbo.

One reason for gumbo's intense, rich flavor, she says, is the use of a roux, made by cooking a mixture of flour and oil until it browns. But this classic roux makes a gumbo very high in fat.

To eliminate the high-fat content but keep a rich flavor, Polk recommends the use of a technique popularized by two celebrated Louisiana chefs (and siblings), Enola and Paul Prudhomme: Flour is toasted over a low heat until it turns brown and takes on a mildly nutty taste. Later, a stock is slowly added to the flour. Known as a "dry roux," flour prepared this way is a nonfat substitute for the traditional roux.

"Proportion is another key way to make gumbo a more healthful dish," Polk says. To lower the risk of cancer and chronic diseases, the institute recommends that meals contain two-thirds (or more) vegetables, fruits, whole grains and legumes, and one-third (or less) animal protein." A totally vegetarian gumbo is healthier still.

Polk's third recommendation for improving the nutritional profile of a gumbo meal concerns its accompaniments. Gumbos are served on a bed of rice, which absorbs the liquid and tempers the dish's heat. Although white rice is the traditional accompaniment, Polk suggests using brown rice for added nutrition and serving gumbo with a leafy green salad and whole-grain bread.

Gumbo z'herbes is traditionally served on Good Friday. The z'herbes part of its name is short for "aux herbes" (with greens), and Polk calls this gumbo in particular a powerhouse of health protection. The classic gumbo z'herbes contains at least seven types of leafy greens, for luck.

In addition to mainstays like kale, spinach and chard, the magical seven greens might include collard, turnip or mustard greens, watercress, arugula and the green tops of beets, carrots, radishes and even dandelions.

Okra is a traditional ingredient for almost any gumbo, but many people dislike its viscous quality, which helps thicken the dish. When added to any gumbo, it should be cooked at least 30 minutes or until its "ropiness" or stringiness disappears. Okra may be added to the following recipe or not, depending on individual tastes. Note that either okra or file powder can be used in a gumbo – but never both in the same dish.

Here is an adapted recipe:

Gumbo z'herbes

• 2/3 cup flour to make a dry (nonfat) roux
• 2 to 3 tablespoons canola oil
• 2 large onions, chopped
• 1 large green bell pepper, chopped
• 3 celery ribs, chopped
• 3 to 4 large peeled garlic cloves, or to taste, finely chopped
• 6 bunches (about 6 cups packed) assorted leafy greens, e.g. chard, kale, spinach, collards, mustard and/or turnip greens, or one 10-ounce package each of frozen chopped spinach, mustard greens, turnip greens and collard greens
• 3 peeled, whole garlic cloves, mashed
• 4 bay leaves
• 1 teaspoon dried basil
• 1 teaspoon ground thyme
• 1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
• 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
• 2 quarts (about) water
• 10-ounce box frozen whole okra, rinsed to separate, and cut into ´-inch-thick rounds (optional, see note)
• 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped
• 2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
• 3 to 4 grinds of freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
• 1/8/ teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
• 1 to 2 teaspoons liquid-smoke seasoning, or to taste (optional)
• 4 cups hot cooked long-grain rice, preferably brown
• File powder, to accompany gumbo
• Hot sauce, to accompany gumbo

Make a dry (nonfat) roux by browning flour in nonstick skillet over low heat. Stirring constantly, brown flour until it turns a medium brown. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside to cool.

Heat oil in saucepan on medium heat. Lightly saute onion, then bell pepper, celery and chopped garlic, until softened, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle in dry roux and stir until well blended. Remove from heat and set aside.

In large stock pot, place greens, 3 mashed garlic cloves, bay leaves, basil, thyme, allspice, cloves and water. Cover and bring to boil, then reduce heat and simmer until greens are almost but not quite tender, about 5 minutes. Drain greens, reserving liquid, and remove large pieces of garlic. Chop greens and return to pot. Measure out 2 cups reserved liquid.

Return roux-vegetable mixture to stove and heat over medium heat, stirring, until hot. Whisking constantly, slowly add 2 cups reserved liquid from greens until completely blended and smooth. Add to pot of greens, stirring until combined well.

Slowly add additional reserved liquid to greens until gumbo becomes a soup-like mixture. (Less than the total amount of reserved liquid may be needed.) Add parsley, salt, black pepper, cayenne pepper and liquid-smoke seasoning (if desired) to taste. Simmer until greens are completely tender, about 5 to 10 minutes.

Divide rice equally among six bowls. Add equal amounts of gumbo, over rice. Serve with file powder and hot sauce on the side, for individual diners to add to each bowl, if desired.

Note: If using okra, add to cooking liquid after greens have been drained and simmer about 30 minutes, or until ropiness or stringiness disappears. Then add chopped greens and continue with recipe.

Makes 6 servings. Nutrition information per serving: 268 cal., 5 g fat.