Island Pantry
A barbecue primer, from matchstick to marinade

By Kaui Philpotts

Here comes summer: the grill is out. Oh, happy day!

There are a variety of choices in grilling, from charcoals to marinades. And even the barbecue sauces off the shelf are so varied there's no longer any real need to make anything from scratch. Gregory Yamamoto •  The Honolulu Advertiser

Although you can argue that all year is grilling weather here, the summer heat, not to mention the abundance of watermelon, strawberries, corn and asparagus in the markets, makes eating outdoors even more appealing. But before you crank up that expensive gas grill, or modest, kiawe-filled hibachi, it's time to bone up on some grilling tips.

Grill types

A few years ago it seemed like everyone was switching to gas grills to avoid poisonous carcinogens. But there are many, myself included, who think the flavor of charcoal-grilled food is not to be compared, and we've switched back.

• Disposable grills: These are the aluminum foil trays you can buy in any supermarket. Don't expect to be able to invite the neighbors, but if you are only grilling for the two of you at the beach or in the back yard they work just fine. They will only last about an hour.
• Hibachis: We've all had them, and they still work just fine. This Japanese native is inexpensive and can be assembled quickly. They're perfect for hauling to the beach or for tailgating.
• Kettle grills: Think Weber, though there are other brands that have similar shape and function. The rounded top allows you to use this type as a grill and almost an oven. It's also easier to control the temperature by means of the draft and moving the coals and the shelf about. Whole chickens and roasts can be cooked on these grills.
• Gas grills: These are just plain convenient (if harder to put away and disguise) because they light up immediately and it's easy to control the heat. They are the priciest.

Fuel choices

• Briquettes: These lumps of charcoal are the easiest to find and the coals last the longest. On the downside, they can be hard to ignite and there is some concern about the chemical additives used to help them start. If you use them, try to find the kind with the least additives and be careful spreading the starter fuel around.
• Kiawe charcoal: This local favorite can be used very much like briquettes. These tend to spark more and they burn up faster than briquettes, but the charcoal gives a hot, satisfying fire (and, some say, flavor).
• Hardwood: Fires lit from actual cut wood and kindling need a lot of attention (and some skill to start and keep going), but they do burn slowly and many believe they give the best flavor. You need wood, a good-sized outdoor grill and time.

Marinades and sauces

There are so many good bottled marinades and barbecue sauces on the market, you don't really have to bother making them from scratch. One idea is to use up all those partial bottles of salad dressing in the refrigerator by turning them into marinades for chicken, fish or vegetables. The main advantage to making your own sauces is that you get to control the ingredients, especially if you have health issues. Don't forget that old Island standby, Hawaiian rock salt.

Grilling cautions

When you are through grilling, allow the coals to cool at least 24 hours before throwing them out. Even a small spark can make a big fire. If you have a charcoal grill with a top, put the cover down and open the vents. That will help clean off the grate. If your grill is gas, you can put the lid down and turn it on high for about 15 minutes, then clean off the grate with a wire brush or balled up aluminum foil.

Time issues

So how long is enough on the grill? Fish fillets such as ahi and mahimahi usually take 4 or 5 minutes per side. Do not overcook, and if you err, do it on the underdone side. Remember that grilled food continues to cook after you have removed it from the fire. Shrimp or scallops threaded onto those bamboo skewers will take about 2 or 3 minutes per side.

Chicken can be tricky to cook through before the outside is blackened, so partially cooking it in the microwave or oven first is a good idea. Boneless breasts take about 10 to 15 minutes per side, and half a chicken will take anywhere from 45 minutes to 1 hour (turning every 10 minutes or so).

Steaks and chops that are about one inch thick will cook in 8 to 10 minutes (turn them only once). Burgers take about the same amount of time. A whole pork tenderloin will cook in about 20 minutes (turn it about every 6 to 7 minutes). Don't forget to allow it to rest for about 10 minutes before slicing.

Try these recipes in your own back yard.

Thai Grilled Chicken

• 2 pounds chicken thighs
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Butter or Manoa lettuce leaves for garnish
• 1/2 cucumber, cut into strips
• 4 green onions, trimmed and cut into 5 inch lengths
• 2 limes, quartered

Marinade:

• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 4 teaspoons sugar
• 2 teaspoons paprika
• 1 piece fresh ginger, chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 to 2 tablespoons cilantro, chopped
• 3 tablespoons sesame oil

With a sharp knife, score the chicken thighs to let the marinade penetrate the chicken flesh and place the pieces in a shallow bowl. Grind the peppercorns, cumin seeds and sugar with a mortar and pestle or in a food processor. Add the paprika, ginger, garlic, cilantro and sesame oil and grind into a paste. Spread the marinade over the chicken and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours or overnight. Grill the chicken over medium heat for about 20 minutes, basting with the marinade. Arrange on the lettuce and garnish with the cucumber, green onion and limes. Serves 4.

Grilled Scallops with Lime Butter

• 2 limes
• 1 egg yolk
• 6 tablespoons butter, melted
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 12 large fresh scallops
• Olive oil for brushing

Cut one lime into wedges, and grate the rind and squeeze the juice of the second one. In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolk, lime rind and lime juice until pale and smooth. Gradually mix in the melted butter, whisking until thick. Salt and pepper to taste. Thread the scallops on bamboo skewers that have been soaked in water for about 15 minutes. Baste the scallops with the olive oil, and grill for about 3 to 4 æminutes. Do not overcook. Pour lime butter over scallops and serve with lime wedges. Serves 4.