Island Pantry
Make a holiday curry supper the kama'aina way

By Kaui Philpotts

Simplicity and ease are at the heart of entertaining in Hawai'i. So during this hectic holiday season, entertain a few friends with that old island classic, the curry supper.

Bottled curry pastes, background, are a shortcut to rich flavor, as is canned coconut milk, right. Papadoms, foreground, are Indian spiced lentil wafers that turn into crispy snacks when fried briefly. Deborah Booker • The Honolulu Advertiser

As important as food is to Hawai'i-style entertaining, it's really the easy mix of people of all ages and racial backgrounds that has endured and makes life here so special. If you have found your circle of friends narrowing, try mixing it up a bit more this time. You will be surprised at the new energy it gives your dinner party.

A generation ago when people's lives at least seemed more leisurely, back yards were planted with lime, Meyer lemon, mango, starfruit, papaya, banana and lychee trees that provided an unending supply of produce for jams, jellies, sauces, cakes, pies and other desserts.

Today, the akamai host picks them up at school and church bazaars and keeps them in the cupboard for his own table, or for giving as holiday hostess gifts.

Island homes look best when they are decorated with flowers that look more like they came from the back yard than the florist. There's a charm in finding stalks of scented yellow ginger simply placed into a clear vase, or a slender cylinder found at in a second-hand store. Remember that strong scents at the dining table, however, will compete with the flavors of the food.

There is also always a place for lauhala mats on the table. If you can find old lauhala that has acquired the patina of time at yard sales, or from a kama'aina relative, all the better. (Otherwise, check out East Asia Basket Co. on Queen Street, which has tons of lauhala, very reasonably priced.)

Stacks of wooden monkeypod trays or sturdy ceramic ware with tropical floral patterns look beautiful and are functional at curry suppers.

Forget about matching flatware. Use what you have, regardless of the pattern, and fill in with whatever suits your fancy. Many island hosts use good stainless with faux bamboo handles for an earthy and tropical look.

Don't forget generous napkins. Handmade napkins picked up at craft fairs with silkscreened tropical leaves, palaka or Indonesian batik are favorites. Forget paper; we're being kind to our environment.

If you can't seat everyone at the same table, set up a buffet instead. If the occasion is casual, nobody minds balancing plates on laps. However, if buffets are your personal style, look into investing in nice lacquer or bamboo trays to make maneuvering easier.

Start a few days in advance and plan a menu simple enough so that you can spend time having fun at your own party. Nothing is as off-putting as a host who is not having a good time.

Begin with a simple salad of Nalo greens, or any locally grown salad mix, and the best olive oil, balsamic vinegar and sea salt you can lay your hands on. Taro rolls or Indian papadoms (found in health food stores and a few Asian food stores) are a nice accompaniment.

Make your curry a day ahead. It will taste better and the flavors will have a chance to rest and "marry." To the curry sauce, you can add anything you like, from shrimp or chicken to sliced hard-boiled eggs.

The condiment tray is a must (and I think the best part). Assemble ahead of time small bowls of chopped green onion, bacon bits, chopped macadamia nuts and toasted coconut chips. If you make your own mango chutney, or have purchased some at a local fair, now is the time to serve it. I have included a recipe here for Pear and Ginger Chutney as an alternative.

Serve your curry over jasmine rice cooked in chicken broth, then tossed with butter and raisins. Forget wine. Good imported beers are an ideal accompaniment to spicy curry dinners.

Another nice addition is baked bananas: Select ripe bananas, peel and slice them in half lengthwise and place in a baking pan; dot with butter and sprinkle a bit of ground cinnamon over. In a saucepan, warm bottled guava jelly and pour the liquid over the bananas. Bake in a preheated moderate (350 degrees) oven until the bananas are cooked through, about 15 or 20 minutes.

Finish the meal with a Sour Meyer Lemon Cake, vanilla ice cream and strong Kona coffee. Old-timers would pull out a stashed bottle of 'okolehao at this point, but you may want to serve port instead.

To make this menu, you may need to make a trip to Chinatown, an Asian grocery or a farmer's market for kaffir lime leaves and Meyer lemons. Patak's curry pastes (which I prefer to curry powder) are available at the Asian Grocery, 1319 S. Beretania St.

Classic Island Chicken Curry

• 1 1/2 tablespoons butter
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 1 or 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 piece fresh ginger the size of a quarter, finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons or more curry powder or Patak's curry paste
• 1/2 teaspoon brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons flour
• 1 14-ounce can coconut milk
• 1/2 cup or more chicken broth
• Sea salt to taste
• About 2 cups chopped, cooked chicken

In a saucepan, melt the butter. Add the onion, garlic, ginger and saute until lightly browned. Add the curry or curry paste and sugar and continue to cook for another minute. Add the flour and stir. Gradually add the coconut milk, stirring constantly. If the sauce is too thick, add the chicken broth to thin. Do not cook on too high heat or the coconut milk will separate. Add salt to taste. Add the cooked chicken and cool. Refrigerate overnight and reheat before serving. (Double this recipe as needed for more guests). Serves 4 to 6.

The next two recipes are adapted from "Entertaining," by Donna Hay.

Pear and Ginger Chutney

• 2 pounds Bosc or Bartlett pears, peeled, cored and chopped
• 1/4 cup shredded fresh ginger
• 6 or less red chilies, seeded and chopped
• 2 onions, finely chopped
• 3 tablespoons cilantro, chopped
• 2 kaffir lime leaves (available in Asian markets)
• 2 1/2 cups cider vinegar
• 1 cup brown sugar
• 1 cup white sugar
• Sea salt and black pepper to taste

Place the pears, ginger, chilies, onions, coriander, lime leaves, vinegar and sugars in a saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes, or till the chutney is thickened. Stir occasionally. Add salt and pepper. Cool and store in covered plastic container in the refrigerator until ready to serve. Makes about 1 large jar.

Sour Meyer Lemon Cake

• 4 ounces butter, softened
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1 1/2 tablespoons grated lemon rind
• 2 eggs, slightly beaten
• 1 1/2 cups self-rising flour
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice (preferably from Meyer lemons)
• Confectioner's sugar for sprinkling

Place the butter, sugar and lemon rind in the bowl of an electric mixer and beat until light and creamy. Add the eggs and beat well. Fold in the flour, sour cream and lemon juice. Place the mixture into a greased and floured square cake pan and bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for about 40 minutes, or until skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. Allow cake to rest before removing to serving plate. Sift confectioner's sugar over the top. Serve with vanilla ice cream. Serves 8.