Island Style
Wearing the right shoe the right way matters
By Paula Rath
Advertiser Staff Writer
Shoes don't make the man — but they can help.
Photos by Gregory Yamamoto • The Honolulu Advertiser
Island fashion people and career consultants say the first thing many people notice about a man's dress, especially for special occasions and in professional situations, is his shoes: their quality, how well cared for they are and how appropriate to the occasion and outfit.
Business aloha attire: navy pants with cordovan shoes and navy socks with subtle print says "this guy knows how to dress."
Daryl Sato, who grew up in the Sato Clothiers family, a bastion of the well-dressed gentleman at Ala Moana Center for many years, is one who considers a top-to-toe look important. On the toe end of things, he carefully considers what socks to wear to complement his shirt, pants and shoes.
While he was brought up with the conservative black shoe/black sock, brown shoe/brown sock philosophy, Sato says dressing today is "more about personality."
Patterned socks can create a more sophisticated look, he said: "Younger guys especially are wearing more patterns because they want to be different and it's eye-catching. It's a statement of individuality."
Sato sometimes wears argyles with his black-and-white oxfords.
Classic business wear: for dressier days, black lace-up shoes with charcoal pants and socks that are a subtle combination of gray and black.
When he's going for a more formal look, such as an aloha shirt and sport coat, he prefers dark shoes (cordovan, sort of a burgundy color, is a favorite) with dark socks. For the classic aloha shirt and khakis ensemble he would choose brown loafers and patterned socks that include colors present in his shirt, pants and shoes.
Sato's pet peeve? "Work shoes should not be carried into the evening. Shoes should be changed before going out at night."
Shoe basics
The general rule is the dressier the outfit, the finer-textured the socks. Formal wear calls for sheer silk hose. Fine-gauge wool or finer cottons are for business attire. Argyles and cotton cable knits are more casual. In Hawai'i natural fibers are preferable because they breathe and are cooler. Wool and cotton blends with a little lycra in the toe and heel (for longer wearing) are a good combination.
Casual elegance with color harmony: tan pants with woven brown shoes and textured socks that tie it all together.
Sato considers his good shoes an investment. He has some that are 15 years old. He takes care of them by putting them on shoe stretchers with a cloth bag to protect them.
While men's shoes aren't quite as much at the whim of trends as other clothing, some looks do date you. Right now, shoes are gravitating toward longer, leaner styles, less round-toed and boxy-looking, according to Mara Kloiber of Bally.
The hem issue
Another man who knows how to dress is Alden Yamane, who works in men's clothing at Liberty House Ala Moana. His pet peeve? "I am always amazed at how short men wear their pants in Hawai'i," he said. It's especially important for a shorter man to wear pants long enough not to visually "shorten" the leg.
Auwe! Light socks with black shoes and olive pants are a no-no. In addition, these pants are high-waters, about 2 1/2 inches too short. To correct the look, lengthen the pants and switch to olive socks.
"The back of the pant should be at the top of the heel," Yamane explained. "For a boot or higher heel, you may want to go a little longer."
This means a man should always try on pants before buying them and check the back length in a three-way mirror. When pants shopping be sure to have with you the shoes you will wear with the pants, especially if it's likely that the pants will have to be altered. However, if you are shopping in slippers, remove your slippers and have the tailor measure the pants to the floor; that should work well with a normal heel height.
Another fitting tip from Yamane: Make sure you place the pants on your waist where it would normally fall. In fitting pants, sit down and squat to see where the hem falls.
Pants cuffs are a matter of personal preference. However the cuff can create an added horizontal line, so if a taller look is desired, a plain hem might be a better choice.
Keeping your shoes spiffy
Shoes are often among the most expensive items in a man's wardrobe. Robert Lopresti, owner of Joe Pacific Shoe Repair, offers this advice:
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Use cream polish (he recommends Kiwi, in 80 colors with 30 percent dye pigment).
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Always waterproof shoes using a waterproofing spray; apply before polishing.
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Where mildew is a problem, store shoes in a closet with good circulation, a dehumidifier or low-wattage light bulb kept on. Never store shoes in plastic bags.
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To remove mildew, Lopresti recommends a product called The Tannery, followed by Fabreze spray to kill odor in shoes.
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Tight shoes can be professionally stretched a full measure of size, width or length. Sole protectors can be added to new shoes to reduce slickness, lengthen life of shoe.
While Sato matches his socks to his shoes, Yamane says it's important that pants and shoes match, to create one long look.
Some pairings he recommends:
- Black or gray pants: black shoe best but cordovan (burgundy) OK.
- Navy pants: any color shoe works.
- Tan or taupe pants: brown shoes (never black).
While men's fashions have loosened up considerably, there is one rule that has never changed: the belt should always, always match the shoes in color and degree of formality. A few examples:
- With a black leather lace-up shoe, wear a black leather belt.
- With athletic or golf shoes, wear a canvas or woven leather belt.
- With brown loafers, khakis and an aloha shirt, wear a brown leather belt.
Oh, and one more thing: Never wear white socks with dark dress shoes. And can those dark socks with sandals.
