Dining Scene
Outstanding northern Chinese dining in Kalihi
By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic
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| Queenie Ly, co-owner of New Ja Ja restaurant in Kalihi, and her husband Tan create a variety of satisfying meat, fish and vegetable dishes that are sure to please their customers. The restaurant specializes northern Chinese cuisine, but also turns out excellent phô, the northern Vietnamese beef noodle soup.
Gregory Yamamoto • The Honolulu Advertiser New Ja Ja 1210 Dillingham Blvd., Kapalama Shopping Center 845-8886 Sunday-Thursday: 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Friday-Saturday: 9 a.m.-10 p.m.
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New Ja Ja bills itself as northern Chinese cuisine. The northern region of China extends up into Mongolia's hostile and extreme climate landscapes that feature the Gobi Desert on the one hand, along with icy winter winds out of the Arctic. The northern climate isn't amenable to rice cultivation, so wheat, barley, millet and soybeans are the staple foods; breads and noodles have always anchored the meal. Beijing is the pearl of this region; its food was based on imperial court cuisine over several centuries.
New Ja Ja restaurant is the love child of Queenie and Tan Ly, a mom-and-pop team who have been married for 13 years. I asked Queenie what Ja Ja means in English and she simply replied with, "the best." That's a sweet sentiment and a great goal for any restaurant operator. These two are so accommodating and friendly. If you don't have your heart set on anything specific, you can always ask them what's good. They'll be sure to steer you in the right direction, giving you plenty of choices.
On my first visit I asked Tan to suggest a fish dish and he told me to try the house special ($8.75). I told him to "go for it" and what came out of the kitchen was nothing less than a fish masterpiece. I have to admit it was outstanding.
Two huge fillets of sole were lightly coated, flash-fried and placed over crisp cucumber slices and rings of fresh sweet onion. The fish was soft and tender, flavored with just the right amount of minced garlic and fresh cracked black pepper, with a simple sweet soy sauce. This is a must-try dish.
Another outstanding item is the shrimp in chili garlic sauce ($8.25), a superb spicy combination of flavors. A dozen or so shrimp are battered and fried, then tossed in a sweet-spicy chili and garlic sauce. Sweet onions, scallions and shreds of cabbage are the vegetable accompaniment here. The hot crunch of the shrimp gives way to the assertive spiciness of the sauce, making this a textural and flavorful triumph. Definitely order this if you are eating in the restaurant; the fried coating will not stay crisp if taken away.
Black bean beef ($7.95) and the garlic chicken ($7.75) are also worthwhile dishes. The beef was tender and thinly sliced, with onions and green pepper. The garlic chicken came with water chestnuts and mushrooms, and was very garlicky indeed. Spicy eggplant with pork ($6.95) packs a delayed wallop, disguised in a slightly sweet-at-first-blush taste.
On the vegetable side of the menu, the stir-fried spinach with garlic or with tofu ($6.95) really hits the spot, as does the crisp-tender choy sum with oyster sauce ($6.95). Because these items are subtle in flavor, it's usually a safe bet to enjoy them before the spicy dishes, otherwise their flavors will be hidden. I'll always start out with milder foods, allowing my palate to adjust to the seasonings.
The Vietnamese phú ($5.25) and the condiments on each table (hoisin sauce and bright red chili sauce) give a touch of different flavorings; Tan was born in Vietnam and shows his stuff on this popular beef noodle soup.
Lunch business is brisk here, offering very inexpensive prices for takeout. For instance, $5 will get you three different items and a drink. During lunch, there are always several hot items to choose from at the counter.
New Ja Ja is a fine Chinese restaurant. A few of its dishes are exceptional, and the owners are delightful. Each of them handles a red-hot wok with aplomb, and the dishes come flying out of their kitchen ready to satisfy. Everyone knows what bon appetit means; in Chinese, it's nin chi hao. Enjoy.
Reach Matthew Gray at ChefMatthew@LoveLife.com.
