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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Tuesday, September 4, 2001

Island Style
Fall makeup must-haves

 •  Fashion Calendar

By Paula Rath
Advertiser Staff Writer

Although we're experiencing the hottest days of the year in Hawai'i, according to the fashion calendar, it's fall. That means lots of turtleneck sweaters, wool pants and, of course, a leather jacket. Huh? Not in your wardrobe plans?

Trish McEvoy's makeup map shows off her "must-haves" for the fall season: Red Lip Highlights, London Face Shine Stick and powder bronze eyeliner applied with brush No. 11. Remember to hold the brush vertically, "like a lollipop." Available at Neiman Marcus. Stila's creator Jeanine Lobell says eyes this season should smolder with a matte texture. Shown here: "Passport to Paris," three shades of pink/mauve. Available at Sephora.

Jeff Widener • The Honolulu Advertiser

It's tough to take fashion seasons seriously in the Islands.

But there is a way many women try to stay up to date with seasonal trends: through makeup.

The Advertiser asked professional makeup artists — local and national — for their take on fall looks and the "must-haves" for now, and what they like runs the gamut from drugstore varieties to high-end products.

At the New York makeup house Stila, it's all about eyes; at Lorac, also in New York, the focus is on lips. If that's too confusing, just remember: You should choose where your focus will be — eyes or lips. The experts say it doesn't work to emphasize more than one feature.

Here's what the makeup mavens said were their three makeup must-haves for the fall season, and why:

• • •

Trish McEvoy
Owner/founder of Trish McEvoy (by phone from New York)

This season's look: "It's a combination of matte and glowing. Matte is back for the nose and T-line. Glow is best on cheekbones and under eyebrows." She recommends:

1. A red lip gloss, so you can dress up any of the lip colors you already have and make them more festive.

2. Powder bronze eyeliner and a definer brush to achieve the perfect line. (She recommends the Trish McEvoy brush No. 11 held vertically — like a lollipop — for a stay-put liner.) "Bronze looks good on a lot of people."

3. A touch of shine to use wherever you wouldn't normally shine (cheekbones, under eyebrows). Her favorite? London FaceShine Stick, a platinum sheer sheen.

• • •

Revlon
Information provided via Tracy Lewis, spokeswoman in New York

This season's look: "It's dark, dramatic and dress-up."

1. Tiger-inspired eye shadows in brown and bronze with teal eyeliner.

2. Understated cheeks glow softly with subtle gold-on-bronze creamy blush in Iced Mocha.

3. Lip color that's barely there.

• • •

Liz Dahl
Honolulu free-lance makeup artist

This season's look: "It's a glamorous, grown-up look; more refined than past seasons." She recommends:

1. Shu Uemura eye shadow in brown, a rich, coppery color.

2. YSL No. 45 lipstick, a light metallic champagne shade. Frame it with a cognac or wine lip liner, or cover the entire lip with the liner, then put a layer of lipstick over it.

3. First Gold by Chanel, a matte iridescent shimmer without shine.

• • •

E'Jay Maldonado
Honolulu free-lance stylist

This season's look: "It's all about 'sultry glam' this season — a lot of color on the eyes, and shine, shine, shine everywhere." He recommends:

1. A body shimmer, for a glow from head to toe. He likes Benefit's Bathina for a stain finish or Flamingo for a bronze finish.

2. A rich lip gloss with "major luster," to wear over lipstick or alone, such as Versace's Lights on Lips (especially the one with "a blue tint to it.")

3. A transparent gloss for eyes to update the shadows you already have. His favorite: Lancome's Fantasy Tube Eye Gloss in Essence.

• • •

Greg Howell
Stylist, Paul Brown in Ward Centre

This season's look: "Golden hues and a subtle shimmer are the look for fall." He advises:

1. Foundation is absolutely critical. Find a color that exactly matches your skin — custom blended is best. It's the basis for the fall look.

2. The "Illuminizer palette" consisting of six sheer shimmers for lips, cheeks and eyes. They can be worn over bare skin or with foundation. Gives a sheer wash of shimmer.

3. Favorite lip color: Nugget, which can combine with lip pencils for different looks. A favorite combination is Nugget with Honey Brown.

• • •

Carol Shaw
Lorac creator; information provided via Sephora

This season's look: "Matte feels modern again."

Shaw said it's all about lips. A little light pink on the eyelids is all you need. Her faves for fall are three deep colors for lips:

1. "Inspire," a deep fuchsia

2. "Explore,"a true red

3. Imagine," a rosy brown

• • •

Jeanine Lobell
Stila creator; information provided via Sephora

This season's look: "Take matte a step further."

1. Eyes are smoldering with a matte texture, whether you go mauve, plum and fuchsia or peach, cocoa and terra cotta or lemon, loden and mustard.

2. Cheeks are soft and subtle; just an accent from the apple to the cheekbone. Try soft mocha or dusty petal.

3. Lips are tame and subdued, a sheer flush with a glaze or nude gloss.

• • •

Stephen Kalama
Makeup artist, Laura Mercier at Neiman Marcus, Ala Moana Center

This season's look: "Glamour is back!"

1. Smoky eyes are big, especially cake eyeliner in aubergine or teal.

2. Bronzing powder with shimmer works for day or night.

3. It's about dewy foundation for a softer, more sheer look.