Island Style
Picking clothes that flatter is a matter of proportion

• Learning to understand proportions
• Fashion Calendar

By Paula Rath
Advertiser Staff Writer

Sun Park, a fashion design student at Honolulu Community College, models looks that feature three different proportions. Clothes were selected by Dori Hashimoto, buyer for Ethel's, Ala Moana Center. Hashimoto said the proportion of this navy suit works for the 5-foot-3 model. Park said, "I feel sharp." Photos by Eugene Tanner The Honolulu Advertiser

The thing is, any skirt length is acceptable right now, from the mini (though that trend doesn't seem to be taking off here) to skirts that graze the ankles. The real issue is a matter of proportion. Any hemline can be flattering, as long it complements your body proportions and takes into account the proportions of all garments and accessories you are wearing.

Sounds simple. Yet when it comes to looking in the mirror, coupled with all the psychological baggage we carry around regarding our bodies, the whole proportion issue can be incredibly confusing. There are so many elements to consider.

Proportion is defined in Webster's "New Collegiate Dictionary" as: "The relation of one part to another or to the whole with respect to magnitude, quantity, or degree; ratio."

Orpha Herrick, a University of Hawai'i-Manoa emeritus professor of clothing and textiles, holds to the premise that fashion is an art form that operates on the principles of every other art form: balance, rhythm, emphasis and proportion.

"These are the components for harmony and they work for fashion too," she said. "Then there are the manipulatable elements: color, texture, shape, space and line. Line has more influence than anything else on proportion."

Herrick said it's absolutely critical to have a full-length mirror. Without it, finding the proper proportion is impossible.

The first thing to consider when choosing clothes to flatter your figure, Herrick said, is: Where do the horizontal lines hit you?

She laughed, remembering her students wailing, "My legs are too short!"

"But I would say, 'They reach the ground, don't they?' " she said. "What they meant was their legs were short in proportion to the rest of their bodies."

The last thing you want to do, Herrick said, is cut your body in half. Exact halves are the least flattering proportion. That means you want to avoid a top and skirt that are the same length.

In fashion, the Golden Mean rules: It's a little complicated, but it means, basically, that the horizontal line — the hem of a jacket, for example — should never cut the body in half. The proportion, as in flower arranging, where uneven numbers are regarded as more pleasing to the eye, should be uneven: short over long, or long layered over short, never even on even. Using the Golden Mean ratio of 2:3 (two parts of the outfit on top, one third on bottom, as in a long jacket over a shorter skirt for a petite woman) or 3:5 (longish top over floor-length skirt or pants for a larger, taller woman) helps balance the outfit, whatever your proportions are. Note: It's easier for most people to "eyeball" the 2:3 ratio than the 3:5.

Most fashion designers base their proportions on a body that is equal to eight head heights. However, in Hawai'i, the average body is closer to seven head heights. Asian women tend to have longer bodies and shorter legs, while Caucasian women often are short-waisted. And as we age, we often become more short-waisted.

Not to worry. Our proportions simply mean we have to work a little harder to achieve the appearance of the Golden Mean. Think about the body as a simple shape that needs to be divided into pleasing proportions through clothing choices. The trick is to combine tops and bottoms so together they make up the proportion ratio.

LEFT: In contrast, this ensemble cuts Park in all the wrong places. She's petite, and this long jacket and long skirt is proportioned for the missy body, so everything is too long and big in scale. "I feel heavy and sloppy," she said. RIGHT: The proportion of this teal outfit, the short jacket over a long dress, flatters Park, making her look tall and slim, Hashimoto said. "It"s so comfortable!" Park said.

If you have short legs:

• Wear pants that taper at the bottom.
• Wear a short jacket (at or above the waist) with a long skirt or pants.
• Wear a long jacket with short skirts.
• Push sleeves up — "It's amazing how this can add perceived height," she said.

If you have a short waist, drop the waist by:

• Creating a blouson look or wearing a short jacket that hits just below the waist.
• Bypass the waist with a longer jacket, dress or tunic.

If you have a long waist, raise the waist by:

• Wearing horizontal or diagonal lines in the bodice to break up the upper body space.
• Bypassing the waist with an interesting asymmetrical line.
• Wearing wide waistbands and cummerbunds the same color as the bottom.

Three O'ahu women, Aurora Freuhling, Mary Ann Grist and Susan Minser-Will, all wardrobe consultants for Doncaster, a line of clothing sold through private showings and at Shopgirl in Kaimuki, attended a training session in Palm Springs, Calif., where Jackie Walker, dubbed "the doctor of closetology," taught them about proportion.

"It's not about size. It's about space," Walker said.

For example, if your legs are not long in proportion to your upper body, be very careful where your hemline hits.

"A midcalf hem adds 20 years and 20 pounds because the horizontal line hits you at the widest part of your leg," she said.

Another of Walker's recommendations: A skirt that flares at the hemline adds unnecessary bulk. Try "pegging" the skirt, bringing it in at both sides for a narrower silhouette. This will help achieve the inverted triangle that is flattering to everyone.

On her CD, "Proportion Politics, How to Feel Better in Your Clothes," she discusses dressing to look taller and thinner. Her practical approach to proportion on the Web (optiondressing.com), too.

Remember, Walker said, if one skirt length and shape works for you, stay with it.

Learning to understand proportions

Last year, the American Sewing Guild invited Orpha Herrick, retired UH-Manoa emeritus professor in clothing and textiles, to present a hands-on workshop on proportion. It turned into a sort of "proportion party," a concept that would translate well into women's homes.

It is not a costly venture. All you need is a roll of butcher paper (around $20 at GBC Box Co.) and pens or pencils. A full-length mirror also is needed. Allow at least three hours.

The invitation list would best be limited to close friends who can be honest with each other.

Work in pairs, with one as the model and the other as measurer, then switch roles.

Tear off a sheet of butcher paper a little longer than the height of the person to be measured.

If space allows, it's most effective to put the paper on the floor and lie on top of it. An alternative is to tape the paper to a wall and stand in front of it, feet together, employing the best possible posture.

Draw around the entire body, conforming to all the curves as closely as possible.

Carefully mark:

• Top of head
• Chin
• Underarm
• Waist
• Hips at fullest part
• Knees
• Bottom of feet

Fold the paper in thirds and then in fourths to see what the proportions are. Herrick said fashion designers generally standardize their designs to be divided in quarters as follows:

• Hipline divides the figure in half.
• A line at the underarm divides the upper half of the body equally.
• Knee divides legs equally.

Or they work based on thirds: Top of the head to the waist is one third, waist to the soles of the feet is two thirds.

This exercise can help you plan a wardrobe.

Once you've determined each participant's proportions, have someone try on a simple, straight black dress. Try it with belts (waist and hip, wide and thin), scarves (at the neck, waist and hip) and jewelry (from tiny and delicate to big and bold.)

See how accessories can change the look of proportions.