Off the Shelf
The best bay leaves are those with freshest possible flavor

The leaf of the bay laurel is an essential flavoring for Mediterranean cuisines. Eugene Tanner • The Honolulu Advertiser

The fragrant leaves come from the evergreen bay laurel tree (Lauris nobilis) and are the leaves once used to crown victors in the Greek games. Flavor is extracted from the leaves by marinating foods with them or simmering them in liquid.

Although powdered bay leaf is available, the most potent flavor comes from the use of the freshest possible leaves, whole or crushed. Bay laurel grows in Hawai'i (although you rarely see it); you can occasionally find the fresh leaves for sale at farmers' markets and craft fairs; snap them up when you do. Otherwise, buy whole leaves in small quantities at specialty shops such as Honolulu Spice Traders; leaves that have turned brown or yellow should be discarded.

In cooking with bay, remember this: overuse will make dishes bitter, and leaves must be removed before serving (they're a choking hazard). The best approach is to tie them into a little cheesecloth packet, as for a bouquet garni (which always contains bay leaf).