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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Friday, September 28, 2001

Dining Scene
Lunch Break: Gorilla-sized grinds to savor

By Derek Paiva
Advertiser Staff Writer

Mike Tudisco, owner and chef of Grilla's, makes his own desserts, too, including cheesecake and apple walnut pie.

Deborah Booker • The Honolulu Advertiser

Real gorillas may prefer a lunch of leaves and assorted twigs, but Grilla's owner and chef Mike Tudisco knows famished downtown Honolulu white-collar types need a bit more variety to keep them walking upright through the afternoon.

A pleasing mix of gourmet inventive and simple no-nonsense comfort food, Grilla's menu features a mouth-watering selection of homemade soups, salads, quiches, subs, hot Philly steak sandwiches, local-style plate lunches and desserts.

My personal favorite is the Gourmet Gorilla for $6.99. One of six Grilla "King Kong Subs," this one comes with generous portions of deli-thin prosciutto, fresh-roasted roast beef and turkey, Jarlsberg cheese, roasted mild red peppers and a medley of baby lettuces. And all wrapped in a crunchy Italian roll with Tudisco's own roasted garlic basil aioli. Be prepared to take half of it back to the office.

I could barely get a taste of my lunch date's spinach, mushroom and shrimp salad ($6.99) before she quickly polished off every bite. Loaded with crunchy baby spinach and fresh mushroom slices, Tudisco lays on a heaping helping of peeled and cleaned whole shrimp, pre-boiled in a savory concoction of onions, celery, garlic, paprika and bay leaves. It's topped with a homemade vinaigrette, tangy with smoked bacon, roasted bell pepper and shallot pieces.

After sampling another lunch partner's $4.25 shoyu chicken plate — thick with enough tasty gravy to soak up its three scoops of rice — we shared dessert slices of warm apple walnut pie ($2.50) and Oreo chocolate chip cheesecake ($3.95). Both are made fresh each day and come highly recommended.

Grilla's dining environ is low key, pleasantly air-conditioned and decorated with a handful of framed monkey-themed movie posters. A menu of breakfast items is served all day.

Bring a simian-sized appetite and several friends to sample from.

Grilla's is at 12 S. King St., mauka side, between Bethel Street and Nu'uanu Avenue. Hours are 6 a.m.-8 p.m weekdays, 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturdays. 545-7444.