Seas scrub Moloka'i port call

By Timothy Hurley
Advertiser Maui County Bureau

KAUNAKAKAI, Moloka'i — Residents protesting the arrival of the first cruise ship to Moloka'i yesterday claimed that Mother Nature was on their side.

Curious residents of Moloka'i watched the luxury liner MS Statendam leave Kaunakakai Harbor yesterday. Because of high winds and choppy seas, officers aboard the ship decided not to risk shuttling passengers into the harbor on smaller boats. Bruce Asato • The Honolulu Advertiser

Opposition leader Walter Ritte Jr. called the winds "the voice of Moloka'i."

"Moloka'i has spoken," he declared. "If you listen carefully, you can hear it."

The Holland America Line vessel arrived at about 7 a.m. as scheduled and appeared to be searching for a good spot to anchor. But it departed less than an hour after it arrived.

In addition to avoiding a potentially dangerous nautical situation, the Statendam averted a confrontation with more than 150 protesters awaiting the ship at Kaunakakai Harbor.

It also took the wind out of the sails of supporters who were on the dock ready for hula and lei greetings. More than 800 of the ship's 1,200 passengers were expected to come ashore for a variety of sightseeing activities.

"There's always next time," shrugged Lawrence Aki, who also helped organize a "ho'olaule'a" and crafts fair in town.

Members of Hui Ho'opakele 'Aina, concerned about damage to environmental and cultural resources, went to court earlier this month to prevent the cruise ship visits. But Maui circuit court Judge Shackley Raffetto did not set a hearing date until Jan. 22 — the same date the Statendam is scheduled to return to Moloka'i.

Yesterday, protesters armed with signs lined the harbor pier as well as the road leading to the pier. A flotilla of four canoes and three small boats, each filled with sign-wielding protesters, was launched to greet the ship.

Ritte said there was no intent to block the passenger shuttles — just to get the word out that they're not welcome. He said his troops would be ready to repeat the exercise Jan. 22.

In town, merchants and vendors hoping to make a few extra bucks lamented their bad luck.

"All the people of Moloka'i are sad," said Jovencio Ruiz, owner of Big Daddy's Store and Restaurant in Kaunakakai. The restaurant is usually closed on Saturday, but he opened it in anticipation of an influx of customers.

Diane Adachi said she was disappointed, especially after spending the night on the street to reserve a spot for her crafts table. Adachi, who was laid off from the Kuluako'i Resort two years ago, described the cruise ships as a blessing for an island in desperate need of an economic shot in the arm.

"The activists are simply content to see their own people live just above the poverty line," said crafter Kanani Johnson.

Susan Carothers, owner of Ziggy's restaurant, said she bought extra food for the day and was hoping it wouldn't go to waste.

"Business is so slow right now, so this would have helped us," she said.

Vendor Paul Salas, a Kapolei resident, said he flew from O'ahu to Moloka'i at the suggestion of a friend, bringing clothing for sale. Sales, however, were "nonexistent."

"At least it's nice and cool. It could be worse," he said.

Several vendors said they were pleased with the number of people who turned out for the crafts fair. They said a lot of locals were drawn to the little town curious about what might happen with so many tourists arriving at once.

Richard Reed, owner of Satin's Doll charter boat, said Moloka'i isn't ready to be overrun by cruise ship visitors.

"In Lahaina, one ship comes in there and its chaos — and they're geared for it. We're not geared for it," he said.

"We're a whole different thing than Waikiki and Lahaina," said Jade Bruhjell, wearing his "No Cruise Ships on Molokai" T-shirt. "We don't want to turn into what they are."

Tanya Delury of 'Ulupalakua, Maui, traveled to the Friendly Isle to join the protest. Delury, who described herself as a conservationist, came on the Moloka'i Ferry with an armful of signs, including "Take your crap and go!" and "They came. They saw. They contaminated."

"This isn't a just a Moloka'i issue. This is a global issue," she said.