Shop smart for superb sashimi

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Need a little 101 as you head out to buy the sashimi for tonight's party?

Fish buyers check the quality of bigeye tuna before bidding at United Fishing Agency's auction. Bigeye is the most prized fish for sashimi. Richard Ambo • The Honolulu Advertiser

Practically speaking, sashimi means 'ahi (tuna), although other forms of seafood are eaten raw.

And, practically speaking, 'ahi at this time of year means bigeye tuna, a deep-water fish that is in season from October to April, offseason from other tunas. Most of the 'ahi sold here is caught by local longline fishermen, who stay out for as long as two weeks, icing their catch until they return. A properly iced and handled 'ahi remains fresh for up to three weeks.

Bigeye is more plump than its sister yellowfin, has a generally higher fat content and is the most prized fish for sashimi. (The only tuna more sought-after for sashimi is the endangered bluefin, from southern Pacific waters; these are generally available here only by special order of select customers.) There may be some yellowfin tuna in stores now, but not much.

Tombo 'ahi (albacore tuna) is not in its peak season but still generally available. It is an inexpensive option for use in poke. Tombo has good fat content but the flesh is soft and difficult to cut for sashimi. Aku (skipjack tuna) is a local favorite for its bold flavor, oily flesh and reasonable prices; some people do use it for sashimi and poke but connoisseurs consider it too "fishy."

Brooks Takenaka, United Fishing Agency assistant manager and occasional buyer, says buying fish for sashimi or poke is a balance between price and how educated a palate you're trying to please. Richard Ambo • The Honolulu Advertiser

There is no formal grading system for sashimi; every fish shop establishes its own descriptive wording and price levels — three to five steps from top-quality sashimi grade to 'ahi that's best used in cooking.

Brooks Takenaka of United Fishing Agency says buying fish for sashimi or poke is a matter of balancing what you have to spend with how educated a palate you are trying to please. If supplies are adequate this year, he said, there will be sufficient second-grade 'ahi at reasonable prices to satisfy the average palate.

Here's our advice for how to proceed at the fish shop.

• Ask: Ask where the fish is from, what kind it is, when it came in. A lack of answers, or evasive answers, are not good signs.
• Cut: Buy pre-cut 'ahi if you're planning to serve it that day. Otherwise, buy an easy-to-slice pre-cut block.
• Color: A desirable color in yellowfin tuna is a translucent soft red, like a ripe, fresh cherry; too bright a red can mean that aging tuna was treated with carbon monoxide to artificially induce fresh-looking color. The bloodline — the discolored strip that runs through the side of 'ahi — should be dark red, not brown (an indicator that the fish is old).
• Fat: A pale, muted reddish pink indicative of a high oil content. Fattier fish are quickly identified by their high price.
• Texture: Fish should feel firm, not squishy; shrink-wrapped blocks should jump back and not dimple when pressed with a finger.
• Temperature: The fish should feel cold; transport in an ice chest with ice or a cold pack.
• Scent: Fresh fish shouldn't smell "fishy."
• Suji lines: Unless you're skilled at cutting sashimi, avoid blocks of 'ahi with lots of closely spaced suji lines (whitish lines of tendon running through the flesh); these are harder to cut.
• Proper care: Wipe 'ahi block with paper towels, wrap in toweling and then plastic; store in refrigerator.
• Slice: Freeze wrapped 'ahi block for 1 or 2 minutes. Remove from freezer and slice with a sharp knife dipped in tap water every few slices.