Kwan's outfits a blend of form and function

By Olivia Barker
USA Today

Michelle Kwan hit the ice at the Olympics last night in a custom-made outfit by Vera Wang. Advertiser library photo • Jan. 12, 2002 Program information 1998 Olympic silver medalist and defending world champion Michelle Kwan competed in the Ladies' Short Program in Salt Lake City yesterday and will compete in the long program on Thursday. Prime-time Olympics programming starts at 6:30 p.m. today on NBC.

And like any first lady, Kwan has her design muse: fashion leader Vera Wang.

In their first Olympic collaboration, Wang has created five bejeweled outfits for the potential gold medallist, two of which Kwan will showcase when she glides into the Salt Lake Ice Center for the short and long programs this week.

"I just don't want to fail her," says Wang, who is attending her first Olympics. She will be sitting in the stands cheering — and hoping that a strap won't snap.

Couture and Olympic competition were first woven together a decade ago, when Nancy Kerrigan salchowed her way through Albertville and then Lillehammer, carrying herself like a brunette Princess Grace in pristine white and nude illusion netting, courtesy of Wang.

A former Olympic skating hopeful herself, Wang, 52, revolutionized skating costumes much in the way she transformed bridal gowns. She took ice attire from spangly get-ups that looked like they had leaped off a circus trapeze to elegant, subtle dresses that complement, rather than overwhelm, a skater's artistry.

The notion of a Seventh Avenue maven triple-toe-looping her way into athletics rankled some skating traditionalists.

"All the brouhaha about the costumes, I think we contributed to it. I honestly do," Wang says. But she's adamant about the fact that these are technical garments that just happen to sparkle; on the ice, form and function are tightly knit. "Though people like to view it as something theatrical and telegenic, it really is part of their equipment. It has to fit flawlessly. In no way can it impede their athletic performance."

Other designers, such as Christian Lacroix in Lillehammer and Donna Karan in Nagano, have dabbled in skating fashion. But style spies say it's no surprise that it's Wang, the skater-turned-bridal-innovator, who gets the gold medal for beadwork.

"When you think about it, your wedding day is a moment you're going to remember for the rest of your life," says Kim Friday, "Women's Wear Daily" West Coast fashion editor. Likewise, skating for your country in the Olympics. "So why shouldn't it be the perfect outfit?"

Friday was privy to a recent Beverly Hills fitting, in which the 21-year-old Kwan tried on a potential — though unlikely — Wang dress: a white, Swarovski-crystal-coated halterback emblazoned with Old Glory. (Kwan modeled it on the cover of "Women's Wear" last week.) Though Wang says the piece of handiwork, intended for the short program, is her favorite, she's "99 percent" sure Kwan won't slip it on for competition because the weight of the beads might hinder the height of her axles.

"With rotation, you have to be very picky with the weight of your dress," Kwan says.

When Wang realized there was a snag, "I wanted to jump out the window because that dress cost me $50,000." (Her other outfits require a minimum of $20,000.) However, Kwan may turn up in the patriotic ensemble for the exhibition, Wang says.

Their relationship is symbiotic, Wang says, with Kwan providing "tremendous" input. However, she admits that, ultimately, "Michelle's the boss."

Kwan, who started her designing relationship with Wang two years ago — Wang is a Kwan family friend — is fond of a gold-threaded purple dress that winds asymmetrically around her body. Kwan triple lutzed in it for the first time at the nationals competition in January during the short program, which she nailed, along with the championship. With such success sewn into this dress, as well as the Indian-inspired red outfit she wore for the long program, we're likely to see some familiar fashions spiraling on the Salt Lake ice, Wang says.

Still, two options remain: a gold dress encrusted in square sequins, intended for the short program, and a long-program mystery outfit. "I can't say," says Wang. "Michelle wouldn't let anyone see it."

Until she glides onto the catwalk — er, ice.

Correction: The short program for women's figure skating at the Winter Olympics was last night. The long program takes place tomorrow. A previous version of this story had incorrect information.