Local wine experts recall learning days

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

From left, Timothy Learmont, Marvin Chang and Kevin Toyama, all employed by R. Field Wine Co., are responsible for shaping an upcoming wine-tasting fund-raiser. Cory Lum The Honolulu Advertiser Hawai'i Uncorked: A Celebration of Wines Events: 150 wines to taste, matched food and wine tastings, four seminars (at an additional fee) — Stag's Leap Wine Cellar, Cask 23 cabernet sauvignon with owner Warren Winiarski; zinfandels with Ehren Jordan, winemaker for Turley Wine Cellars; Kendall-Jackson Great Estates cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay with winemaker Gary Patzwald; and the principles of wine and food matching with Christophe Davis, Kendall-Jackson educational director 11 a.m.-6 p.m. March 10, Grand Ballroom, Sheraton-Waikiki Hotel Tickets: $65 per person; $55 for HPR members and American Express card users; additional seminars $25-$100 per person, space limited Reservations: 955-8821; call R. Field Wines for details on wine tastings, 596-9463.

Today, the three who call themselves the "three amigos" — all employed by the R. Field Wine Co. — are graduates of the coveted advanced sommelier certificate course, and, with Richard Field, are responsible for shaping the program for Hawaii Public Radio's upcoming fund-raiser, "Hawai'i Uncorked: A Celebration of Wines" March 10 at the Sheraton Waikiki Hotel.

The annual event is an opportunity for the three to introduce customers and friends to winemakers they consider to be trailblazers, including Winiarski and Ehren Jordan, Turley Wine Cellars' zinfandel magician.

The three amigos' learning curve parallels America's growth in winemaking and wine appreciation.

Typical of many Americans, none of the three grew up in homes where wine was served regularly. But during the mid-1980s, as America's wine-growing regions were gaining worldwide respect, they were beginning their wine education.

Toyama and Learmont, both 39, graduated from Farrington High School in 1980. Toyama enrolled in an electrical trade school and Learmont was attending UH when both found part-time work with Field — Toyama at The Still liquor shop and Learmont at the original R. Field Ward location. Chang, 36, was a UH student whose part-time job as a waiter sparked an interest in wine. He met Learmont at R. Field, and soon the three were fast friends.

None of them had much money, but they were committed to learning more about wine, so they would each buy one bottle at a time and get together for tastings/study sessions that would go deep into the night. Field was their mentor and, as the four reminisce about those days, the affection and ease among them is evident.

"Richard had an open-door policy," recalled Learmont, the raconteur of the trio. "He said we could call him anytime we had a question."

Call they did. At 1 a.m. sometimes, giddy with the grape. "He was very, very patient," Learmont recalled.

Even then, however, Toyama said, "We had no idea the wine business or the food and beverage business would have this calling for us."

By the early 1990s, all three had earned the advanced sommelier certificates, with Field offering to pay for the costly exams — provided they passed. The certification process covers three days of hands-on and written examinations. One test: a blind tasting presided over by two master sommeliers, who listen as the candidates attempt to identify the six wines in 25 minutes.

Several of those who took the course when it was given here had advanced degrees in other disciplines, Field recalled, and said the certificate course was worse than anything that experienced previously — including the bar exam and medical school exams.

Chang and Toyama worked as maitre d' sommelier at Padovanni's but have returned to the R. Field 'ohana. Toyama manages R. Field at Foodland on Beretania, Chang is at the Kailua store and Learmont is operations director. They are mulling the question of whether — or when — to attempt the grueling master sommelier examination. The pass rate for this exam is 3 percent, and after 24 years of testing, only 104 people worldwide have made it. Toyama claims he's just about got Chang talked into it.

Meanwhile, the three amigos are eager to help others learn more about their favorite subject. They say wine tastings such as the HPR event are a valuable tool, offering the opportunity to experience a range of wines few individuals could afford to (or find the time to) taste on their own.

But if learning is the goal, it's important to approach a tasting with a plan.

"The biggest mistake people can make is to think of it as a drinkfest. If you have even half an ounce of every wine there, you're not going to remember what you had," Learmont said.

His suggestion: Spit. It's not pretty, but it's what the buckets are for, and it allows you to try more wines without feeling the effects.

Decide what you want to get out of a tasting once you know what's available: You could devise your own side-by-side comparison of different brands of a particular varietal, for example. Or you could taste all the different varietals from a particular winery to get a better sense of the winemaker's style.

Chang's advice: Bring a pen and use your tasting guide to make simple notes about what you liked and how it tasted.

Toyama repeats the rule of thumb: Taste whites before reds, lighter wines before heavier, valley-grown before mountain-grown.

In any case, "wine tasting is all about adaptation, about being open-minded," Chang said. "You can't just say I only drink this or that, or I don't like this or that. It's a time to be flexible and open to new experiences."