Big wave hunting
By Dayton Morinaga
Advertiser Staff Writer
The endless summer is kids' stuff for big-wave surfers.
Bernie Baker photo
The endless winter, where wave heights in Hawai'i can hit upwards of 50 feet on any given day between November and February, is what it's really all about.
When it comes to riding big waves, such as those at Waimea Bay, "surfing is the easy part; surviving is the hard part," says Brian Keaulana, pictured below. "Nothing else in the world matters. … It’s not about the money, it’s not about the fame, it’s just about you and that wave."
"Surfing big waves is what I do, and surfing big waves is what I love," said Sunset Beach's Ken Bradshaw, one of the world's most famous big-wave surfers. "I've basically dedicated my life to doing it."
He's not the only one.
"On any 20-foot day at Waimea Bay, there's 50 guys out there, plus about two dozen others at the outer reefs," said Mark Cunningham, training lieutenant for Ocean Safety and Lifeguard Services, a city agency. "I'm blown away by the amount of people able to ride and rip in the big surf. I'm in awe."
Fifteen years ago, a big-wave day would have lured perhaps 20 surfers out to Waimea Bay, Cunningham said.
As the number of surfers with the ability to ride 20-foot waves and larger has increased dramatically in recent years, so too have the contests and competitions for bragging rights and big cash, which have hit a crest in popularity.
One contest promises $100,000 to ride a 100-foot wave in the next three years that might develop anywhere from South Africa to Hawai'i. Another competition's lure is a $50,000 first prize and a sport utility vehicle.
But the quest for fame and fortune is risky because powerful waves can cause severe injury in a sport that tests the limits of nature. And as some surfers resort to being towed farther out into bigger and badder waves, the chances of injury increase.
In some instances, a surfer can be held under water for two minutes or longer, and dragged hundreds of yards away from the initial wipeout.
"I'm totally amazed that no one has died yet in tow-in surfing," said Randy Rarick, executive director of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. "Part of that is because the partner can get there so quickly on the Jet Ski. But numerically, some fatality is bound to happen as long as these guys keep pushing the limits."
Still, legions of thrill-seeking surfers flock to O'ahu's North Shore — widely regarded as the mecca of surfing — every winter in search of fame, fortune and those alluring waves.
Quest for bigger waves
Bernie Baker photo
The limits of big-wave surfing were re-established in the early 1990s with the introduction of tow-in surfing.
The big waves that pound Sunset Beach every winter have helped make O'ahu's North Shore the mecca of surfing for legions of wave riders and a magnet for spectators and media.
The sport involves two people, one on a surfboard, the other on a personal watercraft. The surfer holds on to a rope attached to the back of the watercraft — much like water-skiing — and is towed into big waves. On attaining the right momentum, the surfer releases the rope and surfs along the wave.
The sport was created to get to the waves that were previously inaccessible by normal arm strokes.
"These are areas people would not even contemplate going before," said Makaha's Brian Keaulana, a world-famous big-wave surfer and lifeguard. "But with the knowledge, the ability and the technology, you can now create safety where safety didn't exist before."
Instead of paddling into 20-foot waves at Waimea Bay, surfers are now able to tow-in to 50-footers that break miles away from shore.
"Not everyone can do it," said Ross Clarke-Jones, a champion big-wave surfer from Australia. "Even really good surfers can't do it."
This winter, the inaugural World Championship of Big Wave Tow-in Surfing is scheduled to take place at Pe'ahi, a remote site off the north shore of Maui, also known as "Jaws." The contest will run when waves are at least 40 feet.
"That's an indication of the progression and growth of the sport," Keaulana said. "How will it turn out? That's what we have to find out."
Old-school surfing
Bernie Baker photo
Despite the advent of tow-in surfing, "old-school" big-wave surfing — where surfers paddle themselves into the waves — remains the essence of the sport.
Ross Clarke-Jones, a champion big-wave surfer from Australia, says Waimea Bay "is sacred ground" as far as big-wave spots are concerned.
"I think there is a progression of steps people need to follow," Cunningham said. "It starts with swimming, then working your way up to bigger and bigger waves. I think you definitely should learn how to paddle into big waves before learning to do tow-ins."
The progress, according to most experts, could take years, maybe even decades.
"You need the basics," Keaulana said. "If your (watercraft) dies out on you, you have to know how to save yourself and your partner."
In many ways, paddling into a 20-foot wave with arm strokes can be more difficult than towing-in to a 40-footer.
"You have to know how to paddle, first of all," Keaulana said. "And once you commit to a wave, you have to know how to make the drop down the face of that wave. It's not easy. And then you have to know how to get yourself out of trouble.
"In tow-in surfing, you're relying so much on the Jet Ski. The Jet Ski gives you the power to get into the waves, and it can also rescue you to get out of the waves."
Of course, tow-in surfing is also more costly. A new personal watercraft such as a Kawasaki Jet Ski costs around $10,000, and must be filled with gas for every session. Garrett McNamara, another established big-wave surfer from O'ahu's North Shore, estimates that it costs between $100 and $200 per day for one tow-in session.
High-stake contests
The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational is the oldest and most prestigious big-wave surfing contest in the world.
The contest can run at Waimea Bay only on a winter day when waves are higher than 20 feet and surfable. Surfers must paddle themselves into the waves. Because of its high standards, the contest has been completed just four times since the inaugural event in 1986.
"As far as the scope of big-wave spots go, Waimea Bay is sacred ground," said Clarke-Jones, the winner of last year's Eddie Aikau contest. "It's undoubtedly the most prestigious and honorable event in surfing. If you can put that in your career portfolio, I think it pretty much puts anything else you do behind it."
Four years ago, Quiksilver agreed to sponsor another big-wave contest — The Quiksilver Men Who Ride Mountains — at Mavericks, off the coast of Northern California. That event has also received worldwide attention, including an article in Sports Illustrated.
"And you never see surfing really covered in the mainstream media," said Glenn Moncata, the Hawai'i director of sales and marketing for Quiksilver. "I think seeing the big waves brings so much excitement to people, whether you know anything about surfing or not."
Big money
Last July, the surf-apparel company Billabong received international attention with the announcement of "The Billabong Odyssey."
In essence, the event was billed as a three-year search for selected surfers to find, and ride via tow-in, a wave with a 100-foot face.
"It was genius," Clarke-Jones said of Billabong's marketing blitz for the event. "It freaked everyone out, both inside and outside of the industry."
As Bradshaw noted: "It's well within the concept of reality. The only question is when it will happen. It could be a once in a lifetime phenomenon."
The Odyssey has yet to commence its initial search, but project director Bill Sharp assured that the event is on schedule.
As proof, the invited surfers — including Bradshaw and Shane Dorian of the Big Island — were required to attend a four-day survival skills class conducted by Keaulana off Cape Disappointment, Wash., last November.
"It was cold water, stormy conditions, heavy-impact waves — the best conditions you could get for training," Keaulana said. "But going through that allows us to focus on the surfing because the survival skills are now in place. You see, when it comes to big waves, surfing is the easy part. Surviving is the hard part."
The initial leg of the Odyssey will take place "somewhere along the west coast of North America, anywhere from Mexico up to Canada," said Bill Sharp, project director of the Billabong Odyssey. The journey will begin only when a storm system is discovered along that area capable of producing the required monster waves.
The surfer who rides the biggest wave will receive $1,000 per foot of that wave. If the 100-foot wave is found and surfed, that competitor will receive $100,000. In addition, the surfer judged to be the top performer at the end of the three-year search will receive $250,000.
Sharp said the Odyssey will search for waves off Australia, South Africa, Chile and Hawai'i within the next three years.
Proving it
The concept of the Nissan Xterra XXL Big Wave Awards is simple: Surf a big wave and have somebody photograph or film it.
California's Mike Parsons did it last year, riding a 65-foot wave at the Cortes Bank off Mexico. He has the photos — and a $50,000 check — to prove it.
"The reaction has been amazing," said John Cecil, president of Gherkin Ruckus, the advertising company that promotes the contest. "It really is a compelling contest, and it's like we're the Switzerland of the whole big-wave scene. We're not affiliated with any surf company or surfers. Basically, it's biggest wave wins."
Entries are accepted between October and March. Only 125 respected surfers from around the world are allowed to send in entries, but it can come from any wave in any situation, contest or otherwise, tow-in or paddle-in.
"We'll get about 100 (entries) by the end of the period," Cecil said.
The contest was appealing enough to lure Nissan as a sponsor. In addition to the $50,000 first prize, the winner will receive a 2002 Nissan Xterra sport utility vehicle.
The risk
Like crashes in auto racing, there is a macabre fascination with wipeouts in surfing. And like crashes in auto racing, there is a chance of death on every big-wave wipeout.
Between 1994 and 1997, three experienced surfers from Hawai'i — Mark Foo, Donny Solomon and Todd Chesser — died while riding big waves. Several other professionals have had close calls.
Even an expert such as Keaulana is not immune. He had to be rescued during last season's Eddie Aikau contest after he shattered his eardrum on a wipeout and lost his equilibrium.
"Anything you do in life has risks," he said. "I still feel safer out in the ocean on 100-foot waves than I do driving on the H-1 Freeway."
McNamara has suffered broken ribs and a broken back — "I got bent back so bad, my heels literally touched the back of my head," he said — after wipeouts at Waimea Bay.
"Basically, you become a grain of sand," he said. "You can ball up or try to hold your hands over your head to slow down, but you're at the mercy of the wave."
Added Clarke-Jones: "I've never been in a car accident, but it's like that feeling you might have before you hit another car. There's just a horrible moment of insecurity when you're unsure what's going to happen.
"You just spin around and around and it feels like your arms are going to pop off your body. The key is getting your mind to enjoy it. There's nothing you can do about it, so why not enjoy it? For me, it's sort of like one of those scary rides at an amusement park."
However, not every surfer can handle such punishment, and the popularity of big-wave surfing has lifeguards worried. Because tow-in surfing occurs miles away from shore, lifeguards are not able to monitor the sport regularly.
"I am not comfortable with people pushing the big-wave bravado," Cunningham said. "And the popularity of the whole thing is encouraging more and more people to get out there, people who are not really qualified to be out there."
Most experienced tow-in surfers take safety precautions, including using flotation devices and communication systems.
"There's a difference between a risk-taker and a risk-technician," Keaulana said. "If you want to be out there surfing waves of that size, you need the knowledge first to avoid being a risk-taker. And money cannot buy you that knowledge, only time can."
The reward
Considering the consequences, big-wave surfers are paid relatively — almost ridiculously — low.
"Surfers are exploited so badly," Bradshaw said. "People are risking their lives to ride giant waves, with a chance for what, $50,000? It's absurd when you think about it."
Still, they are out there with every winter swell.
Why? For those skilled enough, the thrill of riding down the face of a giant wave has no equal.
"When you're racing down the face of that wave, nothing else in the world matters," Keaulana said. "You forget everything. At that moment, it's not about the money, it's not about the fame, it's just about you and that wave.
"When you know you're going to make it, you feel bigger than life. And at the end of the ride, when you come back to center and see and feel the reality of what you just accomplished, you just go, 'Wow, that was pretty amazing.' "
Bernie Baker photo
A surfer walks away from the legendary winter waves of Waimea Bay, a big-wave spot just up the road from Sunset Beach.
