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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, January 13, 2002

Buying a diamond ring? Time to learn 4 Cs

By Joy Kraft
Cincinnati Enquirer

The holidays are over, and you're thinking about buying one more gift: an engagement ring.

Diamond rings vary tremendously, depending on carat, or the weight of the stone, as well as its clarity, color and cut.

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The new year heralds the official start of the spring wedding season. But before you run out and buy the first diamond that catches your eye, take a quick lesson on the four Cs in diamond-buying from the Jewelry Information Center, a nonprofit trade association in New York City, and the Web site adiamondisforever.com.

Carat refers to the weight of the diamond, not the size. One carat equals 200 milligrams. Each carat also can be divided into 100 points. A .75-carat diamond is the same as a 75-point or three-quarter carat diamond. Cut and mounting can make a diamond look larger than its actual weight, so talk to your jeweler to find the right combination.

Clarity is about the presence of "inclusions" — natural identifying characteristics such as minerals or fractures appearing while diamonds are being formed in the earth. They look like tiny crystals, clouds or feathers and can be seen through a jeweler's loupe. Inclusions are ranked on a scale of perfection, known as clarity, established by the Gemological Institute of America, ranging from "F" for flawless to "I" for included. Some inclusions can be hidden by the mounting, but one in the middle or top of a diamond could affect dispersion of light, making it seem less brilliant. The greater the diamond's clarity, the more brilliant, valuable and rare it is.

Color also is an important consideration. Diamonds range from icy winter whites to warm summer whites, and are graded on a color scale by the GIA from D, colorless, to Z. Warmer colored (K-Z) stones are desirable set in gold. Winter whites (D-J) look better in white gold or platinum settings. Truly colorless stones, D, are treasured for their rarity. Ask to see a variety of color grades next to each other to see the difference.

Cut refers to the angles and proportions of the diamond. A well-cut stone internally reflects light from one mirror-like facet to another, giving it brilliance and fire. Diamonds cut too deep or too shallow can lose or leak light through the side or bottom, and have less brilliance and value.

The traditional cost guideline in buying an engagement ring is spending two months' salary. But it's not a concrete rule by any means. A good jeweler will spend the time explaining and showing examples of the 4 Cs.