OFF THE SHELF
Five-spice mixture can put zing in lots of things

By Kaui Philpotts

Sometimes there may be more than five spices in store-bought jars of five-spice powder. Richard Ambo • The Honolulu Advertiser

The Chinese see the universe as comprised of five elements — wood, metal, water, fire and earth. The five spices in this cosmically harmonious mixture are star anise, Szechuan peppercorn, fennel, clove and cinnamon. Purists would insist you mix your own spices and grind them in a food mill, but perfectly good spice mixes can be purchased in your supermarket.

The best spice mixes should be fragrant, pungent, hot, mild and sweet — all at the same time. This makes the spice mix ideal to rub on meats before you roast them (try it on a whole chicken) or for adding to dipping sauces.

In his book, "Asian Ingredients," Ken Hom claims that all commercial spice mixes do not actually contain five spices. Sometimes, he says, there are more and sometimes less. You should try several different brands until you find the one you like the best.

It is the spice mix that gives crack seed its specific flavor. Many Hawai'i cooks like to put it in local-style mango chutney.

As with most spices, store tightly closed in a cool, dry and dark place.