Hold the hamburger, serve up diversity

By Pauline M. Millard
Associated Press

"American Regional Cuisine" (Wiley, $45) by The Art Institutes. This tome goes through the United States region by region and offers traditional dishes from each area. The book also offer the curious cook background and detailed history from each of the areas. Many of the recipes are traditional, like New England clam chowder and grilled vegetable gazpacho; others are slightly more exotic, like Wisconsin cheese and beer soup and mango chutney.

"American Classics" (Boston Common, $29.95). The editors of Cook's Illustrated became what they called "culinary archaeologists" in order to find the best recipes for traditional American food. Setting aside concerns like calories and fat, they sought to find the best ways to make classics like lobster rolls, coconut cream pie and corn muffins. The explanations of the dishes are often witty and detailed, proof that editors see their readers as intelligent eaters.

"Bobby Flay Cooks American" (Hyperion, $34.95) by Bobby Flay with Julia Moskin. The host of the Food Network's "Hot Off The Grill" and "Food Nation" conceived new twists on favorite American grill dishes and put them together in a wonderfully illustrated book. He also includes special menus for Thanksgiving and the Fourth of July that include ideas like cranberry martinis and pumpkin bread pudding with molasses whipped cream.

"A Month of Sundaes" (Red Rock, $19.95) by Michael Turback. Turback feels that the sundae is the "great American treat" and has collected 150 recipes from around the country in this selection that is part cookbook and part ode to the ice cream dessert.

"American Pie" (Harper Collins, $23.95) by Pascale Le Draoulec. Le Draoulec explores America's relationship with pie with a journalist's instinct and curiosity. This book, which is more memoir than cookbook, takes readers across the country and into some forgotten corners of the country that are all connected through this one dessert.

This recipe from "Bobby Flay Cooks American" (Hyperion, $34.95) takes a basic American fruit, watermelon, and adds a shot of vodka with a twist of lemon for a slushy martini.

Frozen Watermelon Martinis

• 5 cups watermelon pieces, seeds removed
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup water
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 1/4 cups vodka
• 2 ounces melon liqueur (optional)
• 8 lemon twists, for garnish

In a food processor, puree the watermelon until very smooth, about 4 to 5 minutes. Pour the pureed watermelon into two empty ice cube trays and freeze for at least 4 hours. Freeze martini glasses before serving. Bring the sugar and water to a boil in a small saucepan and cook until the sugar has completely dissolved. Let cool. Combine the frozen watermelon cubes, 1/4 cup simple syrup, lemon juice, vodka and liqueur in a blender and blend until smooth. Taste for sweetness and add more simple syrup if necessary. Pour into glasses and garnish each with a lemon twist.