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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, July 31, 2002

FOOD FOR THOUGHT
A strategy for dining out healthfully

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

I admit I have been among those who labeled the Center for Science in the Public Interest "food Nazis" when, in the early and mid-90s, they released a series of reports on how bad certain restaurant foods are for you.

It wasn't that I disagreed with them, it was that ... well, DUH. Who hasn't figured out that most restaurants — especially mid-price restaurants, ethnic restaurants and fast-food chains — routinely supersize, fatten up and oversalt food to make it more appealing?

But I have to admit that with their new release, "Restaurant Confidential," (Workman, paper, $12.95), Michael Jacobson and Jayne Hurley of the Center will challenge many people's assumptions — for example, that salads are always a good choice (not if they're loaded with cheese, croutons, fried bits and dressing), and that tuna is better than beef (not if it's in a mayo-basted sandwich).

The book, which covers all aspects of dining healthfully in restaurants, has two features that are especially helpful — a 10-point "master strategy" for paring away calories, fat and sodium when eating out, and guides to the 10 best and 10 worst restaurant meals.

I particularly appreciated their specific suggestions to restaurateurs. A good thing because, instead of carping, it lays out what's needed in order to improve restaurant menus.

Their ideas for those in charge of menus: Offer a healthful or "light" section. Allow patrons to make substitutions, such as brown rice or salad for fries. Make use of low-fat versions of foods and offer lower-fat milk, veggie burgers and whole-grain breads. Use vegetable oil instead of solid shortening. Provide nutrition information on menus. Reduce prices on fruits and salads (subsidizing with higher prices on richer offerings). Provide half portions at lower prices. Flag allergens such as nuts.

Going and coming: Kaui Philpotts, whose Island Pantry column has been a fixture in the Taste section in recent years and who has been writing about home decor and entertaining for the Island Life section, has decided to enjoy some time off. We'll miss her friendly, across-the-back-fence writing approach and her extensive knowledge of local-style cooking and entertaining. If you'd like to drop her a line, send it to wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.

... You may have noticed, too, that the Recipe Doctor column, which illustrates how to pare fat and calories from favorite dishes, has been absent. The writer, registered dietitian Elaine Magee, has been negotiating a new contract with Knight Ridder News Service; the column returns Aug. 7. We'd love to see some Hawai'i recipes in this column; submit recipes and requests through www.recipedoctor.com.