CUISINE ON A SHOESTRING
Bob's Bar-B-Que specializes in tasty food at low prices

By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic

Editor's note: Today we introduce Cuisine on a Shoestring, to be published the first Friday of every month, in which Matthew Gray highlights affordable ($10 and under) eateries. Thanks to readers who have e-mailed him with their suggestions; keep 'em coming!

Bob's Bar-B-Que cook Rolly Corpuz tends to ribs, one of the many delicious offerings on the restaurant's menu. Want something sweet? Try a malt. Richard Ambo • The Honolulu Advertiser

Once upon a time (in the '50s and '60s), Bob Wong was a real-estate man. He was asked by a sheriff friend to help find a rental for a man from the Mainland who would be participating in the witness protection program. Bob indeed had a rental available, and agreed to cover the costs until the man found a job and could begin to pay rent.

Well, our friend must have been extremely persuasive, because he talked Bob into buying (apparently a deal he couldn't refuse!) the property on Dillingham at Waiakamilo, where Bob's Bar-B-Que now stands.

The grand idea was to open up — get this — a spaghetti takeout stand in the middle of Kalihi, a neighborhood rich in Japanese, Filipino and local culture. Needless to say, Bob was left high and dry, holding the paper on a now-defunct pasta stand. Not long after that, Bob's Giant Malts & Bar-B-Que was born.

Now it's called Bob's Bar-B-Que, but they still make delicious malts. They are rich, thick, cold and creamy, the kind of chocolate malt you dream about. The prices are $2.25 for small, $2.75 for medium, $4 for a large, and $5.25 for humongous.

This very casual East-meets-West place caters to Hawai'i tastes.

Bob's wife, Marcia, is a volunteer mediator at the Mediation Center of the Pacific, serves on the board of the Hawai'i Alliance for Arts Education, and is on the graduate affiliate faculty in dance at the University of Hawai'i-Manoa.

This fascinating pair serves up mighty fine food in ample portions, and at reasonable prices.

Don't miss their barbecue mixed ribs ($9.75), a combo of beef and baby back pork ribs; or the mixed plate ($6.05), with teriyaki chicken, kalbi and teriyaki steak. Chicken katsu and hibachi chicken ($3.75, $5.25) are excellent as well. Of course, everything's served with rice and macaroni salad.

I love their sandwiches, delicious and very inexpensive. The teri sandwiches, beef, chicken, pork and teri cheeseburger, are only $1.95. The shrimp burger and grilled 'ahi burger come in at $2.75.

Everything here is good.Grab a table outside and enjoy.

Note: Bob's in Kalihi no longer is associated with a similarly named eatery in Stadium Mall.

Harris Brazina started The Well Bento 4 1/2 years ago.Despite its upstairs location, it has a huge and loyal following with folks who enjoy healthy and happy food. It's a takeout-only restaurant.

Brazina's the one slicing, dicing, racing and dancing around his kitchen. He's a colorful character who will chat you up delightfully, while singing the praises of healthy food and fatherhood (he has four kids with Tokyo-born wife Miyuki — Hiromi, 18, Philip, 17, Zackery, 7, and little Zoe, who just turned 2.)

Brazina's restaurant experience goes back to when he was 17, a time when health-food restaurants and consciousness-raising were a match made in heaven. He learned as much as he could at places such as The Cauldron Well (that's where his restaurant took its name) and The East West Restaurant, both in New York City's East Village.

He was whipped into (kitchen) shape by old-school, respected chefs, the ones who throw knives and fits simultaneously. Brazina stuck it out and lived to tell about it.

Cut to 1988: Brazina introduced macrobiotic foods to celeb chef Paul Prudhomme. The macrobiotic principle (a direct correlation to good health when natural foods are eaten) was created in the 1930s by George Ohsawa, a Japanese businessman, teacher and writer.

The Well Bento offers dishes that are healthy, fresh and delicious. They use a couple products, tempeh and seitan, that you may not be familiar with.

Tempeh is a fermented soybean product, starchy and dense in texture, with a comfort-food mouth feel.Tempeh is a complete protein containing all nine essential amino acids.The tempeh scallopini ($7.95) is sautéed with mushrooms in a white wine and lemon sauce.

Seitan, another protein-rich food, is made from wheat gluten and used in many vegetarian dishes. Its firm texture is chewy and meatlike, with a neutral flavor. The grilled seitan ($7.50), along with tofu or tempeh, are offered three ways — Louisiana style (Cajun seasonings and red gravy), western barbecue (maple barbecue and rich tahini gravy), and tamari style (teriyaki and tahini gravy).

They also do grilled dishes here — chicken ($7.95), salmon ($8.25) and flank steak ($9.50) that are luscious, served with fresh vegetables, macaroni salad and brown rice.

The Well Bento turns out wonderfully healthful food that really makes you feel good.Try bringing some to your next picnic or beach party.

Reach Matthew Gray at mgray@honoluluadvertiser.com.