FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Dessert should be sweet, simple

By Wanda A. Adams
Food Editor

Keeping dessert simple keeps the cook sane when company's coming.

During my penniless college days, my standard dessert was sliced fresh strawberries (they were cheap in Washington, where I lived then) drizzled with sweetened, condensed milk. And before you sneer, try it. People would always ask what that white sauce was.

For years, I smiled sweetly and accepted my guests' compliments on a chocolate "mousse" that's the most disreputable fake possible: defrosted Cool Whip into which a melted semi-sweet chocolate bar had been whisked, along with a little liqueur. Some chocolate curls for garnish and people will swear you spent an hour over a double boiler. (But be sure the Cool Whip is thoroughly defrosted or the warm chocolate will seize.)

After I moved back to Hawai'i, I learned about Caramel Miranda, the one and only dessert served at Mark Ellman's late and lamented restaurant, Avalon, in Lahaina. It's just sliced tropical fruit with caramel sauce on top, broiled to golden and bubbling, served hot on top of macadamia-nut brickle ice cream. I've made numerous versions of this dish since then (the recipe is in Janice Wald Henderson's "The New Cuisine of Hawai'i").

Serve it as Mark did, on a large platter in the center of the table. Give everyone a large dessert spoon and let them dig in. It's a party.

A few weeks ago on Maui, chef James McDonald of i'o whisked together a wonderful sweet: fresh whipped cream combined with mango puree and a little powdered sugar. This, he served over a bowl of fresh Kula strawberries. It's a simple idea but one that burst like fireworks in my head. Whip 1 1/2 cups well-chilled whipping cream; fold in 1/2 cup or so of puréed fruit and about 2 tablespoons powdered sugar. The fruit — berries, bananas, peaches or whatever you like — should be processed to a smooth consistency and not too thick. Serve this flavored whipped cream over sliced fruit with a wafer or crisp sugar cookie for a sophisticated but almost effortless dessert.

Another recipe that really wowed me came from chef Gary Danko in the April Food & Wine magazine.

The recipe is actually for a topping for another excellent dessert (a lemon pudding cake), but I had quite a bit left over and have since drizzled this sauce over fresh fruit, over store-bought angel food cake, even over my morning toast. It would be wonderful over pound cake, ice cream or a plain pudding, as well.

This is all there is to it: In a food processor or blender, purée a can or jar of apricots (drain off syrup first) with 1/2 cup apricot preserves, 3 tablespoons water, 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice and salt to taste. Store in refrigerator.