By Lee Cataluna
Advertiser Columnist

When it comes to putting on what locals consider a "real" lu'au — with butcher paper stapled to the tables, ti leaf taped to the butcher paper, kids running around with strawberry soda mustaches and Uncle Pops backing up the band on his washtub bass — perhaps no one does it better than local churches.

And when it comes to putting on what locals consider a "real" church lu'au — with the butcher paper, ti leaf, strawberry moustache and uncle's bass, plus huge helpings of food and even bigger helpings of aloha — perhaps no one does it better than Kaumakapili Church.

This year marks the 31st annual lu'au. The theme is again "he launa pu kakou" (together in fellowship). In years past, lu'au organizers have joked that the sub-theme should be "eat till you tired" or "wear something loose." The dinner is all-you-can-eat kalua pig, chicken long rice, poi, lomi salmon, raw fish, 'opihi, pineapple, sweet potato, cake, haupia and soft drink (because strawberry soda really does go great with kalua pig).

The Kaumakapili congregation is taking on a huge project this year. The church, built in 1911, hasn't been worked on much since. The congregation has been in what they call "capital fund-raising mode" for two years, and they're getting close enough to their $1.23 million target to start renovations. Plans call for repair to the bell tower, restoring stained glass and bringing the sanctuary closer to its original design, inside and out.

The lu'au will help raise money for operating costs so the church can concentrate fund-raising efforts on the renovations. But lu'au committee member Sybil Schoenstein emphasizes that this year's event is true to the original intent. "It's more about fellowship and bringing people together than about fund raising," she said.

Besides, how much money can you raise at an all-you-can-eat lu'au?

For the past few years, Paleka Mattos' Hula Halau o Kamuela has provided the entertainment. Mattos passed away last month, but the Kaumakapili congregation is hoping the halau will be able to carry on its connection to the event. The halau performance has been the crowning touch in making this lu'au the real deal.

There is one small change in the menu, hopefully not a deal-breaker but something to mention: If you want squid lu'au, you gotta B.Y.O.S.

"For the sit-down dinner last year, we had squid lu'au because it was our 30th anniversary," Schoenstein said almost apologetically. "But we don't usually serve squid lu'au. It was a special squid lu'au."

The event is set for Saturday, July 20, at 5:30 p.m. at the church hall. Tickets are $20. There's even a drive-in, take-out service for $15 a box. To make a reservation or place an order, contact the church at 845-0908.

Lee Cataluna's column runs Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Reach her at 535-8172 or lcataluna@honoluluadvertiser.com.