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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, June 26, 2002

OFF THE SHELF
Tart taste of rhubarb a summer tradition for many

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Only rhubarb stems are edible. The poisonous leaves must be discarded.

Cory Lum • The Honolulu Advertiser

In parts of the Mainland where they grow well, rhubarb plants are like mango trees — so prolific that you can't give the stuff away; people duck when they see a neighbor coming with a bagful of the tart, bright red and green stalks. But in Hawai'i, rhubarb grows only at the higher elevations, so unless you live and garden in Kula or Waimea, it's pretty scarce. You will find small supplies in some supermarket produce sections in late winter through early summer.

Rhubarb is an ancient plant, originating in Asia. There are dozens of species of Rheum (rhubarb's scientific name). The one most commonly grown in gardens is R. x cultorum. In China, the dried root, da huang, is used medicinally to reduce fever and cleanse the body. And it was for medicinal uses that it was first cultivated in Europe, in medieval times.

But since the 18th century, rhubarb has been known primarily as a good thing to eat. In fact, in regions, it's called pie plant. In the recipe section of the Web site rhubarbinfo.com, pies outnumber all other recipes, followed by sauces (chutneys and preserves), cakes and cobblers (crisps, fools, crunches and crumbles). Some call rhubarb the wine plant because it was often turned into a homemade cordial.

The stalks are the edible part; the leaves contain poisonous oxalic acid.

The best rhubarb is the first, tender, thin stalks of spring. To prepare rhubarb for use, trim away dried ends and use a vegetable peeler to remove any brown areas.

A quick rhubarb dessert that gives a real sense of rhubarb's puckery, pleasing flavor: Place slices in just enough simple syrup to cover; simmer over medium heat 5-7 minutes, until rhubarb is just tender, not mushy. Serve with whipped cream or as a sauce over cake.