Tavola Tavola brings to the table novel Italian fare
By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic
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| Tavola Tavola on Monsarrat Avenue treats guests to Italian fare executed with simplicity and inventiveness. An expanded menu is in the works.
Gregory Yamamoto • The Honolulu Advertiser Tavola Tavola 3106 Monsarrat Ave. Dinner, Sundays-Thursdays, 5-9:30 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays until 10 p.m. 737-6600
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Interesting eating, too. Italian fare executed with the simplicity and inventiveness of a Japanese chef results in a very light touch on seasonings. I could appreciate that stylistic difference as I tasted my way through this menu, but sometimes you wish for a more powerful jolt of flavor.
In the space that once was home to Cafe Monsarrat, Tavola Tavola quietly opened its doors at the beginning of the year, and it seems to have a devoted following already. The staff is getting the kinks out, attempting to improve what's on the menu while developing new dishes. Our waiter told us that an expanded menu probably would be in place within a couple weeks.
We began with a dish that sounded quite interesting, baked mozzarella with asparagus, tomato, prosciutto and truffle essence, with a fried egg on top ($8.50). Although I love all these ingredients individually, as an appetizer, it really didn't work. It was a bit too wet, too eggy. Perhaps for breakfast, sopped up with the restaurant's delicious three-seed bread (poppy, pumpkin and sesame) this could be a fine eye-opener. On the other hand, the smoked 'ahi and apple tartar ($9.50) was excellent, served with melba toast and assorted greens.
Skip the flash-fried seafood appetizer ($10), which was not hot and crisp. There was too much calamari and octopus on this plate, not enough shrimp or scallops. Instead, order the carpaccio ($8.50) with wedges of parmesan and arugula on the side.
The clam chowder Tavola-style ($7.50) was decidedly different, with an herbal infusion, minced vegetables and steamed, frothy milk on top for added lightness and richness at the same time. It was the most creative clam chowder I've eaten, if not the tastiest.
First courses (usually a pasta or rice dish on Italian menus) were very good. The risotto with grilled chicken and mixed mushrooms ($15) was down-home Italian comfort food — brown, rustic and full of flavor. The pappardelle ($14) are inch-wide homemade noodles, with a fine, light, tomato-based Bolognese meat sauce and assorted mushrooms. Other first courses to choose from are spaghetti with clams ($14), zucchini and white wine sauce, and seafood linguine ($18).
Among the entrees was veal scalloppine ($24) topped with prosciutto, mozzarella and tomato sauce. The three thin slices of veal were moist and seasoned lightly, with the toppings used merely as an accent, not as a covering like so many places do. Next came the kiawe-grilled Kaua'i shrimp ($20.50), a lot of them, tasting sea-sweet, in a herb-infused olive oil — so simple and delicious. These dishes came with grilled sweet peppers and roasted potatoes. Other entrees include loin of lamb ($25), hunter's style in a white wine reduction; a superb local snapper ($24) in a broth with clams, mussels, black olives, cherry tomato and capers; and two beef dishes, a sirloin ($22) with mushroom pesto and a tenderloin ($23) in a buttery balsamic sauce.
I highly recommend the red wine pear torte ($6) for dessert — thin, fanned slices of pear atop a crumbly crust make a dense but not-too-sweet ending. The tiramisu ($6.50) is another fine choice, as is the macadamia and ricotta cheese torte ($6.50).
I'll be interested to see what new menu items Tavola Tavola creates. Porcini mushrooms are one of my favorites, and I hope they'll add those, along with a couple cream-sauce items to break up the tomato monotony. All in all, this restaurant is headed in a positive direction with capable, charming management and efficient waiters.
Reach Matthew Gray at mgray@honoluluadvertiser.com.
