• Postcards Cafe, Hanalei, (808) 826-1191. Worth a stop, if only for the charm of the restored plantation-camp house. They do a brisk business in mostly vegetarian fare with some seafood tossed in. Locals mix with visitors for breakfast (which lasts until 11:30 a.m. on weekends) on hefty Surfer's Break Burritos and Sunrise Scrambles and pack the waiting area at dinner.

• Lighthouse Bistro, Kong Lung Center, Kilauea, (808) 826-0480. Casual, open-air lunch and dinner spot next to the restored Kong Lung Store. Seafood, pasta and wraps with an international flair. Good place to stop after a visit to the Kilauea Lighthouse.

Nightlife

Don't expect a lot. After all, this is Hanalei.

• Sushi & Blues, Ching Young Village, Hanalei, (808) 826-9701. Drop by for blues or jazz in this upstairs lounge on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Dancing Fridays and Saturdays.

• Tahiti Nui, downtown Hanalei, (808) 826-6277. An oldtime hangout from the days when it was the only game in town. Lu'au on Wednesdays. Open for lunch and dinner. The atmosphere has attracted even TV's "Good Morning, America" team.

Activities

• Kayak Hanalei, (808) 826-1881. They do a more vigorous four-hour Hanalei Bay kayak trip in the morning. But ask about the shorter afternoon trip up the Hanalei River with a guide for peace, quiet, birds and scenery if you're a wimp like me.

Kong Lung Center features the Kilauea Bakery as well as the Kong Lung Co. Advertiser library photo

• Waioli Hui'ia Church, United Church of Christ Church and the Mission House, downtown Hanalei. Hawaiian history buffs will enjoy poking around the two old churches and the mission house tucked into the trees in the back. Waioli Hui'ia dates to the 1830s, and its unique thatched hut-goes-New England architecture has been much copied.

• Limahuli Gardens, Ha'ena, (808) 826-1053. If you have the time, drive almost the end of the road at Ha'ena and visit this 988-acre garden filled with native and introduced species. Thanks to the vision of Juliet Rice Wichman, the garden was created and given to the National Tropical Botanical Garden in 1976 so that everyone could see a little of what ancient Hawai'i may have looked like.

Shopping

• Banana Joe's Fruit Stand, Kilauea, (808) 828-1092. A great little bright yellow roadside stand near Kilauea. Pull off for fresh locally made breakfast breads by Country Moon in Kapa'a, Louisa Wooten's fresh goat cheese, local jams and jellies and fresh Kaua'i fruit. Cheerful and not too slick.

• Kong Lung Co., Kong Lung Center, Kilauea, (808) 828-1822. Once touted as the "Gump's of the Pacific," this perennial favorite has lost some of its high-end edge, but it is still a good stop for stylish housewares, clothing, books and gifts.

• Ola's, Hanalei, (808) 826-6937. Located at the entrance to Hanalei, Ola's carries lots of fine handcrafts reminiscent of a couple of decades ago. Look for the funny, funky furniture and paintings by Doug Britt.

• Yellowfish Trading Co., Hanalei Center, (808) 826-1227. Hawaiiana collectibles rule here. Mixed in with the kitschy reproductions you will find some for-real nostalgic memorabilia.