'More flirty, more spirit, more fashion' for plus-size women

By Samantha Critchell
Associated Press

Model Tahiti Fernandez, left, a fashion design student at Honolulu Community College, got her top and bag from Jeans Warehouse. She found her skirt online at sizeappeal.com. At a Lane Bryant fashion show, a model sports the same hip trends as her petite counterparts. Jeff Widener • The Honolulu Advertiser, Associated Press

It's with that same confident attitude that designers and retailers are planning for a spring full of highly fashionable plus-size styles, in sizes 16 to 26 and 1X to 4X.

The evolution of the industry from shapeless dresses to form-fitting fashion is happening and will continue to happen because of "pure economics," says "Curve" producer and director Constantine Valhouli. Even at the missy-size level, he observes, "The 8s, 10s and 12s vanish from stores while the size 2s are left."

According to Valhouli's research, 62 percent of American women wear size 12 and up. Offering stylish clothes in larger styles is a win-win situation, because the market demand is there and it will make women feel better about themselves.

"One of the girls (in "Curve") said it breaks her heart when she sees something in a magazine and she realizes she'll never wear it unless she has it custom made," he says.

That's not the case this season if plus-size customers covet low-slung jeans, corset-style tops, peasant blouses and flat-front pinstripe pants. At a recent Lane Bryant runway show, the largest retailer of plus-size fashion sent out hip looks to correspond with the top trends. The collection was influenced by rock 'n' roll, gypsy chic and 1940s pinup glamour.

Although Lane Bryant has no stores in Hawai'i, plus-size women here report that they make a point of shopping at the Mainland stores, or they order online and through the catalog. On the Web site, viewers can click to see a fashion show featuring rock-inspired looks and a back-up band – KISS.

Lane Bryant customers want the same options in their wardrobe that their missy-size peers have i just in different sizes, says Diane Missell, the company president.

Creating fashions for women who wear larger sizes isn't simply about making garments larger all the way around. When grading (sizing), special adjustments need to be made to the bust, armhole, back and shoulders to match different proportions.

There's also a psychology to size. Some women focus only on the feature they dislike — "I can't wear sleeveless because my arms are fat" — while others feel fabulous regardless of size. It's more a matter of self-conscious versus self-confident than size 2 versus size 20.

Macy's seems to get the message. They are in the midst of redesigning space for an expanded Macy's Woman department. Merchandise is already arriving and can be found, temporarily, on the third floor, makai end, near the personal shopping department.

Plus-size designs by Tommy Hilfiger, Lauren, I.N.C., Elizabeth, Charter Club, Style & Co. and Eileen Fisher are currently available.

"Macy's Woman is about fashionable clothes for fashionable women — more flirty, more spirit, more fashion," said Fashion Director Lavina Wong. She said all the important trends will be available in larger sizes. These include khaki and animal prints, low-rise jeans and feminine tops with voile, crochet, lace and other embellishments.

Shopping as a plus-size teen can be especially difficult. Teens tend to shop at the mall with their friends and, until recently, they could only window-shop while wearing the elastic-waist pants that a trendy store would never stock.

For teens, in particular, being able to wear the same low-rider jeans as their friends not only affects their wardrobes, it affects their attitude.

That's why, a year ago, trendy Jeans Warehouse introduced its Jeans Warehouse II junior plus-size section, consisting of sizes 14-26 and 1X-3X.

According to assistant manager Kuulei Kuroda, it offers all the latest styles: halter and slit sleeve tops, low-rider and frayed-waist jeans, spaghetti-strap dresses, halter tops and plenty of feminine florals and pastels.

Jeans Warehouse II is available at the Ala Moana Center, Pearlridge, Pearl Highlands, Wai'anae, Waipahu and Kamehameha Shopping Center stores.

Ulla Popken, a German line of casual to career clothing offered through catalogs, is a favorite of many local plus-size women. The line has just been picked up by Cotton Cargo, though it's only available at the Ward Warehouse store. The first shipment includes a flax/linen group in neutral colors, as well as a cotton knit collection. Nothing trendy yet.

Wal-Mart is planning a plus-size expansion, as well. Jolette Rasa, Wal-Mart buyer, said the chain's current plus-size offerings are mainly conservative casual looks and aloha attire. However it does have some disco tops and junior jeans, and it is planning to expand to junior plus-size dresses.

More and more designers and retailers, it seems, are starting to understand how to fit and flatter the curves of the full-figured woman.

Advertiser fashion writer Paula Rath contributed to this report.