Park yourself at Parc Cafe for a grand lunch buffet
By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic
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| Yoshi Ogino, a chef at the Parc Cafe in the Waikiki Parc Hotel, points out a number of specialties that are part of the All-American Lunch Buffet to diner Allene Auld.
Bruce Asato • The Honolulu Advertiser Parc Cafe Waikiki Parc Hotel, 2233 Helumoa Road All-American Lunch Buffet: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Wednesdays-Saturdays Other buffets: breakfast, 5:30-10 a.m. daily; dinner, 5:30-9:30 p.m. nightly; Sunday brunch, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Free validated parking 931-6642
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What they're doing now for lunch is called the All-American Lunch Buffet ($15.95), which changes each month. This month salutes the kicked-up cuisine of the town they call the "Big Easy" — New Orleans — with many famous Cajun and Creole dishes added to the already well-stocked buffet line.
The Parc Cafe is a pleasant restaurant in a garden-like setting. On both occasions when we visited, the staff bustled about, checking on the buffet line and replenishing as necessary. They were good about removing plates, refilling drinks and generally taking care of diners' needs.
I was quite impressed with the quality of the salad table, a circular affair jammed with delectable treats. Helpful cards identify each dish — no need to guess whether you're eating a Peking duck or Chinese chicken salad (they had both), and what kind of sauce or flavorings are in the dishes.
A sampling of the seemingly endless items on the salad table: tofu salad, charbroiled eggplant slices in miso sauce, penne pasta salad, shrimp with string beans, artichoke salad, long rice, Maui onions, 'ahi poke, potato salad, choi sum with oyster sauce, macaroni salad, lomi lomi salmon, fresh spinach and Caesar salad, chicken and watercress with peanut vinaigrette, broccoli and crab salad, and namasu pickled vegetables. Also on the table: various dressings and chili pepper water.
As for the New Orleans spread, the chicken and sausage gumbo was spicy and thick, just right, on its own table next to a mountainous basket of fresh rolls. Past the cold cuts (turkey, ham, pastrami and sliced cheeses with an array of condiments and spreads) was a build-to-order sandwich station. The chef will make you a fresh po' boy with shrimp or oysters (lightly dusted with cornmeal and flash-fried) on a bun with lettuce, tomato and Creole mayonnaise or mustard. He can whip up a mighty fine steak and onion sandwich, too.
The next area offered fried catfish filets, very tender roast Cajun-rubbed chicken, Oysters Rockefeller, fantastic smothered cabbage with sausage and bacon, red beans, rice, shrimp etouffee (the only disappointment because the sauce was too thin), and cheesy au gratin potatoes.
Last but certainly not least is the dessert bar. The New Orleans beignet, a cousin to our malassadas and doughnuts, was there. A beignet is a yummy-luscious mound of sweet fried dough that when done right is so darn pleasing. Fruit pies include blueberry and apple, and cream pies such as guava chiffon, strawberry shortcake, chocolate macadamia all await. Also, there is a soft-serve ice cream station with cones and every topping in the book . A small bowl of fresh melon chunks, strawberries and grapes sat off to one side.
The Parc's chef, Don K. Maruyama Jr., was born and reared in Hawai'i. He has close to 20 years of experience, having served as executive chef of Fort Street Bar & Grill, designing a menu emphasizing Asian-Pacific and local cuisine. He was also a chef at Indigo Eurasian Restaurant, at Solana Restaurant and first cook at Cascada. Before that, Maruyama honed his skills at such well-known establishments as La Mer, Roy's, Ruth's Chris Steak House and Salerno Italian Restaurant.
The All-American concept is a creative one. April will focus on Southern cooking. In May, for Cinco de Mayo, the buffet will highlight Southwestern cuisine. And the June spread will salute Midwestern cooking.
Reach Matthew Gray at mgray@honoluluadvertiser.com.
