Profiles: Robert Lawless

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Robert Lawless
Chef-instructor, Kapi'olani Community College

Born: San Diego, 1962

Moved to Hawai'i: As a child, attended Stevenson Intermediate, Roosevelt High School, Kapi'olani Community College, in food service and culinary arts, and Chaminade University

Mainland years: Lawless spent 10 years on the Mainland, graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, working in Florida and New York and traveling to learn about regional and ethnic cuisines. In Pittsburgh, he worked at Bidwell Training Center, then was Bidwell Food Services executive chef.

Return to Hawai'i: Lawless became sous chef at Mauna Kea Beach Hotel before returning to KCC as chef-instructor. "And I couldn't be happier," he said.

My style of cooking: "On the Mainland, I had the opportunity to really taste, see and experience so many wonderful cuisines. Of course, I couldn't help but bust out some of the local specialties I grew up with. I like fresh, healthy flavors that remind me of home — regional dishes that have Asia and the Pacific, all blended together; contemporaries and classics, world cuisine."

I love to cook with: "Fresh local greens, Waimanalo Greens. The varieties Dean Okimoto and his family are growing at Nalo Farms are fantastic; I especially like the new developments in sprouts — corn and snow pea especially. I just don't get why we have to import so much from the Mainland, when we have it all. ... For me, there's nothing quite like the presentation, beautiful color and unique taste of greens, either piled on high, or just as a hint of a garnish ... They're great on an entree instead of a hot boring vegetable."

My comfort food: "Homemade glumpkies (cabbage rolls), slowly braised in a fresh tomato broth with knoekon (hand-pressed noodles) and weinerbrode (Danish pastries)"

My favorite cookbook: " 'The New Professional Chef' and 'Larousse Gastronomique' for references, 'The Golden Door' by Michel Stroot, 'True Thai' from Victor Sodsook, and 'Crust & Crumb' by Peter Reinhart, for baking. For garnishing, the text by Henry Rosen 'Culinary Carving and Plate Decorating,' is fantastic."

My favorite kitchen tool: "Aside from a great French and paring knife, I always carry a retractable box cutter; really the perfect tool for intricate carving and garnishing."

When I'm really hungry, I grab: "A glass of milk, chocolate-chip cookies, or those little peanut butter Ritz crackers — but not very often"

When I'm not working, I like to: "My work is really a pleasure (but also) reading, writing, and interests on the Internet. I like browsing Chinatown, farmer's markets ... the art and culture of O'ahu in theater, the symphony; activities at the church I belong to."

When I go out to eat, I like: "For a buffet, I just can't get enough of Todai's in Waikiki — largest in town, excellent variety and selection with a great price. Keo's for Thai, authentic flavors and ambiance, and of course, Rainbow Drive Inn."

Which chef do you admire the most and why?: "I admire Chef Hiltbrand. He is an icon at the campus and in our industry. Subtle, friendly, and a true professional, if you were looking for a definition of the word. Throughout my travels and culinary pursuits, I've often drawn upon the lessons that Chef H. taught me, when I was a student. For celebrity chefs, got to go with Emeril Lagasse, Wolfgang Puck and Jacques Pepin."

My favorite dish to prepare is: "I like new twists on eclectic, traditional salads. For years, no one was really putting much creativity into this area of cold foods; we just kept seeing the same old potato, macaroni and marinated vegetables. Hawai'i is really making strides, and I like what I see coming out of the kitchens. A favorite is Okinawan Sweet Potato Salad, that combines traditional salad potatoes with purple Okinawan potatoes, celery, onions, and peas, with wasabi-based mayonnaise. For presentation, I take a sheet of nori and toast it over an open-flame, forming it into a cup or tulip shape, add the potato salad, and garnish with a few green onion curls. Local diced, cooked taro makes a nice addition to this salad."

The weirdest ingredient I've ever used was: "As a garde manger, I've seen a lot of weird ingredients ... Tripe and caul fat, charcutiere components, are all pretty uncommon."

My dream job is: "Teaching at Kapi'olani is my dream job. The environment is education driven, which offers a completely separate set of parameters in comparison to commercial industry."

If I could invite any three people, living or dead, to share a meal with me, they would be: "President Bush; John Lennon, songwriter and performer, for his beliefs and philosophy; Pablo Picasso or Claude Monet for their artistic talents. To make it a banquet, I'd include Enya, Einstein, Frank Lloyd Wright and the Dalai Lama."