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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, May 1, 2002

OFF THE SHELF
Strong flavors add zest to nutrient-rich winged beans

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Cory Lum • The Honolulu Advertiser
Winged beans have almost as many names as they have ruffles: Goa bean, four-angled bean, princess pea, fava de cavalo, frijol alado, dolico de Goa and dau rong. The plant has been called "the ultimate multipurpose crop" because almost all parts of this climbing vine are edible — tubers, shoots, leaves, flowers and seeds. Having originated in tropical Asia, winged beans grow readily here.

These legumes, Psophocarpus tetragonolobus, are valued also because the beans have 20 percent protein. The beans also offer an abundance of essential nutrients, including complex carbohydrates, B vitamins, calcium, iron and fiber. Low in sodium, one-half cup contains about 126 calories.

Each bean has four equally spaced slightly ruffled fins or wings. Larger than string beans, the pods are lightweight. Cooked winged beans offer a flavor somewhere between a pod bean and a shell bean. Starchier, blander and meatier than string beans, this bean is greener-flavored and crunchier than a shell bean.

Ask the Filipino vendors in Chinatown what to do with the beans and they'll suggest "soup" — but I've noticed that they say "soup" about most vegetables. A little Internet research shows that beans are often pickled in Sri Lanka and India, blanched and tossed in a spicy pork salad in Thailand, stir-fried throughout Asia.

To prepare the beans, wash them in a water-filled sink and slice off the tips. Immerse the beans in briskly boiling water for a couple of minutes and then plunge in ice water to stop the cooking. Then slice cross-wise or at an angle, check to see if the string seems tough and, if so, remove it. Use in cooked dishes or raw salads.

Although relatively bland in flavor, the beans really come alive when blanched rather than steamed and when combined with assertive flavors like chili or cilantro.

To store, tightly wrap in plastic and keep in the upper part of the refrigerator. Use promptly, within 2-3 days at most. Find winged beans at Asian specialty stores, farmer's markets or in Chinatown.