Posted on: Friday, May 3, 2002

Naturally flashy turquoise appeals to fashion-savvy

By Paula Rath
Advertiser Staff Writer

Clockwise, starting from left: 1. Turquoise necklace with jochlas ($220) — a type of Navajo jewelry — from Noelani Gallery. . . . Turquoise terms to be aware of Turquoise is a fragile, soft, porous stone. Only about 25 percent of turquoise is usable in its natural state, so natural turquoise is usually more costly. "It's rare to find turquoise that has (not) been stabilized or altered to harden it," said Wendy Schofield-Ching, owner of Native Winds gallery. This makes it difficult to tell what is natural and what is synthetic. Schofield-Ching offered the following information regarding treatments to keep the turquoise from fading or crumbling. When shopping, ask the salesperson if the stone has been treated, and how. Some terms to know: • Natural: unchanged from its natural state. • Enhanced: treated with electrical currents to harden the stone and enhance color. No dyes, resins, waxes or oils are used. Will not change color over time. • Stabilized: impregnated with epoxy to harden the stone and enhance the color. Will not change color over time. • Compressed: treated with pressure to harden the stone. • Synthetic: produced in a laboratory to replicate the chemical composition and physical characteristics of the natural stone. • Lab-grown: artificially made to have the physical properties and chemical composition of the natural substance. 2. Turquoise necklace with coral and a silver feather ($126), by Jennie B. for Riches Kahala. 3. Turquoise drop necklace with rock crystal and sterling silver, by Julie Wong for Neiman Marcus($320). 4. Turquoise and silver cuff ($360) from Noelani Gallery.

Turquoise is the gem for this summer. Perhaps it's the stone's bright color that the fashion-conscious are flocking to. Or the way it works with white, the season's hottest color. Or it may also be a matter of economics that makes it so appealing: Turquoise is more affordable than most gems.

Whatever the reason, the stone, traditionally associated with American Indian jewelry and usually found mounted with silver, is showing up on the fingers, necks and wrists of today's most fashionable.

In director Steven Soderbergh's coming film "Full Frontal," Oscar winner Julia Roberts sports a Chinese cloisonne pendant with turquoise. You'll also see a load of luscious turquoise worn by Salma Hayek and Ashley Judd in a movie about Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. Town and Country magazine shows "The West Wing" star Janel Maloney lounging about in turquoise jewelry from David Saity Jewelry, a New York jeweler. The recent Sports Illustrated swimsuit edition featured turquoise necklaces to complement the racy bikinis. And that's just a sampling.

"There is a big interest in all things 'Native,' whether American or elsewhere, in fashion," says David Wolfe, fashion director for Doneger Group, New York-based retail consultants. "Turquoise jewelry is currently hot because it is 'naturally flashy.' The urge to dress up is not losing momentum, but the current mind-set is to be low-key and 'real.' "

Irenka Jakubiak, editor of Accessories magazine, agrees. "We're gravitating toward things that have meaning in life," she said. "There's a return to a bohemian, '70s way of dressing, particularly for a younger customer. The prairie look is such a hit, and turquoise goes perfectly with that. It's so easy to wear. It works with every skin type and every age of women."

Elizabeth Florence, executive director of the Jewelry Information Center, says turquoise also is being embraced as an antithesis to the heavy-crystal craze that has dominated fashion and accessories for the past couple of seasons. "Diamonds may be forever, but that sort of flashy glitz is out of sync right now," Wolfe says.

Find gem at local shops

Savvy Hawai'i buyers are on top of the trend, stocking up on trendy turquoise.

• One collection of both pawn and contemporary Native American turquoise lies in an unlikely place: Noelani Gallery in Kaimuki. Owner Noelani Bloch is drawn toward chunky, organic pieces. She appreciates the way the stone darkens over time in reaction to the natural oils of the body.

Traditional pieces have meaning, she notes. For example, the jochlas that hang off the middle of turquoise bead necklaces (as in the cover photo) indicate the wealth of the wearer; the more jochlas a woman has, the wealthier she is.

Bloch's rings and earrings range from $25 to $45, with cuff bracelets between $60 and $450, and pendants $75 and up. Bloch usually keeps only a few pieces of jewelry in her gallery, so call ahead, 734-7144, if you want to see more.

• Another treasure trove of modern turquoise jewelry can be found at Native Winds gift gallery and craft supply in Kaimuki. Owner Wendy Schofield-Ching also has a collection of books about turquoise, and a great deal of personal expertise. She explained that turquoise got its name from the Levantine traders called Turks who brought the stone to Europe from Persia via Turkey centuries ago.

Native Winds carries some museum-quality pieces by well-known Santa Fe artists such as Ray Tracey, Andy Kirk and his daughter Melanie Kirk-Lente. These designers are rooted in Native American tradition but offer their own contemporary interpretations.

Native Winds also carries Zuni, Hopi and Navajo tribe jewelry, earrings, pendants and bracelets. There also are items for those who want to make their own turquoise jewelry. Prices range from $6 to $600.

• Beaders who prefer to string their own may find an eclectic selection of turquoise beads around the corner at Bead It! On Koko Head Avenue.

• At Neiman Marcus, jewelers Rebecca Collins, Alana Leigh, Stephen Dweck and John Hardy have created collections with turquoise as a featured stone.

Julie Wong, an Oregon artist with roots in Wahiawa, combines Persian, Native American and Chinese turquoise with rock crystal, topaz, fire opals and pearls. Wong meticulously designs and handcrafts each piece in either sterling silver or 14 karat gold. Wong's silver and stone necklaces range in price from $200 to $400, while the gold pieces are roughly $800 to $2,000.

• Riches Kahala features several local designers with new turquoise collections. Two Hands combines turquoise with aquamarine and peridot for a delicate look, while Jennie B. plays with chunks of the stone accented with organic-looking centerpieces and a silver charm or two.

Turquoise, especially, the chunky pieces, works well with the trendy hippie chic or gypsy look. However a little turquoise goes a long way. Stick to a single piece and don't overdo it.

Greg Morago of the Hartford Courant contributed to this report. Reach Paula Rath at 525-5464 or e-mail her at islandlife@honoluluadvertiser.com..