Recalling adventures in interisland boat travel
By Mel Rodenhurst
Ah, the old days and their wonderful memories!
My place of birth was in the small town of Niuli'i, in North Kohala on the Big Island. As one of seven children, I found the country and plantation lifestyle fulfilling. Kohala Sugar Co. was the prime provider in the community.
At the tender age of 5, I was sent to Honolulu to attend school. I returned to Kohala each summer to visit my family. At the time (mid-1930s), the main mode of interisland transportation was by boat. Although air travel was available, it was more expensive.
Inter-Island Steam Navigation Co. operated the ships between islands. They were the Wai'ale'ale, Hualalai and Haleakala (primarily passenger ships) and the Humu'ula and Hawai'i (cattle, freight and passenger ships). Since Humu'ula made regular calls at the port of Mahukona, on the north side of the Big Island, it was the ship I traveled on, unescorted.
At Mahukona, the ship would anchor offshore and passengers were ferried from the dock by the ship's lifeboats. They were towed by motor launch, which we called "puck-puck boat" because of its engine sound. Negotiating the transfer from small boat to the ships' ladder was tricky and dangerous because of the ocean swells. Once aboard, the purser collected the $5 fare. Most passengers selected steerage, which was the lowest fare.
The steerage area was a large open area aft, on the second deck. Wooden slats covered the steel deck. People would stake out their space with mats and luggage, then settle down to eat their food. Of course, cabins were available, but more expensive at $10. Often the ship's crew cared for me. I knew my way around the entire ship.
Usually, the cattle were already on board in the open forward part of the ship. Their strong aroma was easily recognizable to all. Wiffa Kealoha! Occasionally, however, the ship would call at Mahukona first, load passengers, then swing around to Kawaihae to load cattle. That was quite an experience!
The ship would anchor offshore and the loading operation would begin. Cattle were dragged from the shore into the ocean by paniolo, then eight to 10 were tied to the side of a boat then towed to the ship. Here, they were hoisted on board by winch, one at a time.
A sight to behold! Loading completed, the ships sailed for Honolulu. Sometimes they made calls at Lahaina, Maui, or Kaumalapau, Lana'i.
On the voyage from Honolulu to Mahukona, the ship departed from Pier 12 in the early afternoon. As usual, I traveled unescorted in steerage class. The crew would check me out, then I got the run of the ship. My favorite place was the engine room, where I chatted with the chief engineer. The machinery and noise fascinated me.
Stops were made along the way at Lahaina and Kaumalapau to unload and load cargo and passengers. Arrival at Mahukona was in the early morning. Disembarking from the ship into the small boats was an adventurous feat! Again, it took agility and the crew's help to board the small boats, especially in rough seas. At the wharf, it was equally risky.
During the war, the Humu'ula would sail escorted by a Navy vessel, but she was never in danger because she was so fast. Eventually, in 1950, the interisland ships were sold and the business closed down as air travel took over. It was sad to have another part of Hawai'i's past fade into history. Nevertheless, these once-in-a-lifetime experiences will remain in my memory forever.
Mel Rodenhurst now lives in Kailua on O'ahu.
