Incredible views of Big Island coast along Ka'aha Trail

By Richard McMahon
Special to The Advertiser

A spotlight of a trail , courtesy of author Richard McMahon

LOCATION: The coastal zone of Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park is the setting for this moderately strenuous trip.

The trailhead is at the end of Hilina Pali Road.

DESCRIPTION: This is a great introduction to the dramatic coastal scenery of the national park. It begins at the overlook at the end of Hilina Pali Road, and descends 2,280 feet to the shoreline, four miles away.

The trail switchbacks down the Hilina Pali, a drop of 1,300 feet, and then crosses a wide lava plain to reach a shallow cove on the coast.

There is no shade except for three separate trees spaced along the switchback, and a small area within the Ka'aha shelter near the shore.

The view from the overlook provides a grand sweep of the coastline. There are two trailheads here.

Make sure you are on the Ka'aha Trail, which leads to the left; the Ka'u Desert Trail turns off to the right. Soon into the descent you will be able to see a U-shaped cove indenting the shoreline. This is Ka'aha, your destination.

The trail is easy to follow as it switchbacks down the steep pali. Footing is generally good, but there are some rough spots of sharp rock and loose 'a'a.

If it is a hot day, take advantage of the shade provided by the three trees to take short rests.

At the base of the pali, a long line of large ahu (rock cairns) marches toward the sea, marking the remainder of the route.

You will soon reach a trail junction. Take the right fork, toward Ka'aha. The gradual descent over the old pahoehoe lava plain is relieved only by brown grasses and some scrub brush.

There are several lava tubes along the route, one with a surprise — a healthy guava tree growing in the entrance. The accident of its seed falling in one of the few spots in this arid place where water can collect, provided our group with a tasty treat.

The lava tubes along the trail may be worth exploring, and it is possible that they may be different collapses into the same, long tube.

At 1.4 miles from the first trail junction, a second one appears. Take the right fork, and the trail climbs down a short, rocky escarpment to reach the Ka'aha Shelter.

The most noticeable feature of Ka'aha is that it is a green oasis in a sea of black. Fresh ground water, close to the surface, allows naupaka and a few other types of plants to prosper. The shelter is a small, three-sided roofed structure, with a dirt floor. A water tank, fed by a roof catchment, usually contains water, which should be treated before drinking. There is also a pit toilet nearby.

A trail marked by small ahu leads to the cove on the shoreline. The cove itself is too shallow for swimming, but it is a fine place to soak in one of its tide pools; some of which are covered with a thick carpet of green pickleweed. A tiny accretion of brown sand on the left side of the cove borders one of the deeper pools.

SPECIAL COMMENTS: Entry to the open ocean should be made with care. On most days, waves crash hard against the rocky shoreline, making any entry dangerous.

Calm, windless days may provide an opportunity for ocean swimming, but even then, it is prudent not to stray too far from shore.

A stroll eastward, toward Kalu'e Point, reveals two large metal tanks with spigots near the bottom. Our party found fresh water in both of them, a possible source if the shelter tank is dry.

Prior to starting out, check with the visitor's center about the status of the Hilina Pali area. In times of high fire hazard the road may be closed. You can also check the water level of the tank at Ka'aha at the same time.