Kiawe smoke enlivens Maui chef's salads

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

When he prepares a fresh salad from the restaurant's garden up in Kula, Maui, i'o and Pacific'O chef James McDonald likes to toss ingredients in an unusual dressing made by briefly smoking fresh tomatoes before pureeing them to make a vinaigrette. The smoking technique isn't difficult and is very doable for a home cook.

You need kiawe chips, a tin can with top cut off and a bunch of holes punched in the sides, and the roasting pan that comes with your oven — the one with the heavy solid bottom and the perforated top. Line the bottom with heavy-duty aluminum foil.

Core and halve 1 pound of tomatoes. Place them cut side up on the perforated part of the roasting pan.

Take the bottom of the roasting pan, the kiawe chips and the can outside. Place the wood chips in the can, put the can on the roasting pan and set the wood chips alight. Let them flare up and burn down. Wearing heat-proof gloves, turn the can over and spread the smoking chips in the foil-lined roasting pan. Bring it back indoors, put the top of the roasting pan on it. Make a tent of foil over the whole, to trap the smoke, or just place a large metal bowl over the tomatoes.

Place this in the oven and allow the tomatoes to smoke for 5-10 minutes. You don't want too strong a smoke flavor.

Now make the vinaigrette.

Smoked Tomato Dressing

• 1 pound cored, halved cold-smoked tomatoes
• 4 cups canola oil
• 2 tablespoons roughly chopped shallots
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons garlic, roughly chopped
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1/3 cup red wine vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon Pepper Mix (below)
• 3 tablespoons chives in 1/2-inch strips

Squeeze juice from tomatoes into canister of blender, then throw in tomatoes and all remaining ingredients except chives. Puree. Strain out solids. Add chives. Chill.

McDonald uses this Pepper Mix in his restaurants instead of straight black pepper.

Pepper Mix

• 1 part Szechuan peppercorns
• 2 parts coriander seed
• 2 parts black peppercorns
• 2 parts white peppercorns

Place ingredients in blender or coffee grinder/spice mill and grind to desired consistency.