Squash: The misunderstood vegetable

• You can stuff it, spice it or even hash it

By Karen Fernau
Arizona Republic

Squashes, with a wide variety of types and textures, make a nice addition to an autumn meal when they are cooked and seasoned imaginatively. Gannett News Service Know your squash Acorn: One of the most popular, it is excellent for baking. This acorn-shape squash has deeply ridged, dark green skin, orange markings and yellow-orange flesh. Hubbard: This bumpy-skinned variety is usually plump in the middle and tapered at the neck. It varies from dark green to light blue to orange. Buttercup: Named for its turbanlike shape, it is squat and dark green skin with lighter green stripes. The orange flesh is sweet but somewhat dry. Carnival: It has a pale yellow skin with green markings. The yellow meat is reminiscent of sweet potato. Delicata: Also called sweet potato squash, it has a pale yellow skin with medium green stripes and yellow flesh. Sweet Dumpling: This small squash has light-colored skin, usually with dark green stripes. It serves only one person. Spaghetti: When cooked, the flesh of this oval yellow squash forms strands similar to spaghetti. It has a mild taste and crisp texture. — Arizona Republic

However, dressed and cooked properly, these hard-shell vegetables add a fresh taste to the Thanksgiving table and other winter meals. Do not judge these vegetables solely by their covers.

"Winter squash can be misunderstood because it looks too hard to eat," says cookbook author and cooking instructor Gwen Ashley Walters.

"Once you get over how they look, you can enjoy their robust flavors. If nothing else, these squashes are a great change from rice and potatoes."

The most frequently asked question about these vegetables is: How are they cut and cooked?

Most are cooked the same way: Cut in half, scoop out the seeds. If the shell is too hard to cut with a sharp chef's knife, microwave the squash whole for one to two minutes to soften the shell, and then cut in half. Bake in a 375-degree oven for an hour and a half, or covered in a microwave for five to six minutes per pound on high.

For seasoning, try adding cinnamon, cloves, brown sugar, ginger and nutmeg to enhance the natural sweetness. Cumin and cayenne add an ethnic flair.

"You should not limit yourself to baking squash. Try using it as a base for a vegetable hash, combining them with crunchy vegetables. They taste wonderful mashed or pureed," says Walters, author of "The Great Ranch Cookbook: Spirited Recipes and Rhetoric From America's Best Guest Ranches" (Pen and Fork, $19.95) and "The Cool Mountain Cookbook: A Gourmet Guide to Winter Retreats" (Pen and Fork, $19.95).

There are hundreds of winter squashes, from acorn, butternut, banana, Delicata and spaghetti to Hubbard. Although varying in taste and texture, many are interchangeable in recipes. Winter squashes vary from softball- to basketball-sized.

Despite the squash's unusual appearance, its original popularity was based on its practicality. Squash was a way to eat vegetables through the winter before the advent of freezers. Their tough exterior and dense flesh allowed squashes to be stored in root cellars or cool attics for months.

Today, these tough-skinned varieties remain a good source of nutrition, providing powerful doses of carbohydrates, beta carotene and vitamin A. A half-cup serving of cooked winter squash has about 65 calories, with the only fat from added butter or oil.

Vegetarians often build their main course around a hearty squash, but the vegetable also pairs well with poultry, pork and beef.

Select a squash that is dry, hard and heavy for its size. Avoid those with blemishes, soft spots or cracks. The darker the inside, the better the taste. Uncut winter squash will store up to three months in a cool, dry spot. Storing squash in the refrigerator will accelerate its deterioration. Refrigerate whole winter squash no longer than two weeks.

You can stuff it, spice it or even hash it

Arizona Republic

These squash recipes are from food writer Gwen Ashley Waters.

Butternut Squash Hash

• 1 1/2 pounds butternut squash, peeled and seeded
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1/2 cup red onion, chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and finely chopped
• 3/4 cup fresh corn kernels (about 1 ear) or fl cup frozen
• 1/2 cup green bell pepper, chopped
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/4 teaspoon salt, to taste
• 1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper, to taste
• 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped, for garnish

Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and prepare a bowl of ice water. Cut squash into half-inch cubes (should yield about three cups). When water comes to a boil, add the squash and cook three to four minutes or until just barely tender. Drain and plunge squash into ice water to stop cooking. Drain from ice water and spread on a sheet pan to dry. (May be prepared a day in advance. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature before proceeding to next step.)

Heat vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add dry squash, red onion and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until squash starts to turn brown, about eight to 10 minutes.

Add jalapeno pepper, corn, bell pepper and cumin. Cook, stirring occasionally, until squash is golden brown, about three to five minutes. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Garnish with cilantro.

Makes four servings.

Skillet Spaghetti Squash

• 1 large spaghetti squash
• 1 tablespoon hazelnut oil
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 2 tablespoons hazelnut liqueur
• 2 tablespoons light brown sugar

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Halve squash and remove the seeds. Place cut side up on a baking sheet and bake, covered, until tender, about 35 to 45 minutes. Allow squash to cool, then use a fork to scrape the flesh into a bowl.

Heat a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add hazelnut oil and butter. When hot, add squash and cook five minutes, stir frequently.

Pour in hazelnut liqueur and cook until it almost evaporates. Stir in brown sugar and simmer until brown sugar is dissolved, two to three minutes. Serve warm.

Makes six servings.

Apple-walnut Stuffed Squash

• 2 acorn squashes (1 and 1/2 to 2 pounds each)
• 2 teaspoons butter, melted
• 2 red baking apples (such as the Rome variety)
• 1/2 cup walnuts, chopped
• 1/2 cup raisins
• 1/2 cup brown sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 2 teaspoons cold water

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Cut squash in half lengthwise and scrape out seeds. Place on a baking sheet, cut side up, and brush flesh with melted butter. (If necessary, slice off a little on the bottom so it lies flat.) Bake, uncovered, for 30 minutes.

Peel, core and chop apples. Mix apples, walnuts, raisins, brown sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl.

Remove squash from oven and fill each cavity with the apple mixture, dividing evenly. Top each squash half with one-half teaspoon cold butter. Return to oven and bake 30 minutes longer. Remove and cool five minutes before serving.

Makes four servings.