Gaucho Grill offers a savory bite of Argentina

By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic

Gaucho Grill brings the meat-intensive cuisine of Argentina to Honolulu. Beef is the star attraction, although there also are popular chicken entrees to tempt the palate as well. Empanadas — light and flaky pastry crescents filled with meats, vegetables and cheeses — are served in several taste-tempting interpretations. Gregory Yamamoto • The Honolulu Advertiser Gaucho Grill 1060 Auahi St. Ward Entertainment Center 596-9906 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sundays Good

In the United States, though, food isn't an automatic association with that country. The Gaucho Grill chain restaurant seeks to change that belief.

Four meals a day are the tradition in Argentina. Desayuno is a light breakfast of rolls and jam with coffee. Almuerzo is a heartier lunch of meat and vegetables or salad. After work but before dinner, picadas — little dishes of cheeses, olives, cured meats and seafood, salami, nuts and so on, similar to Spanish tapas — are enjoyed in confiter’as (cafes) with espresso. And finally, cena (dinner), later in the evening, is the largest meal of the day and almost always includes beef of some sort, usually barbecued.

The tradition of eating beef began in the 19th century, when there were thousands of cattle on the pampas (from the Quechua Indian word meaning flat land). Gauchos (similar to the American cowboy or Hawaiian paniolo) began wandering the Argentinian countryside as early as the 1600s, tending the cimarron cattle introduced by Pedro de Mendoza in 1538.

There the custom arose of roasting beef on a spit over an open fire, skewering chunks of meat to be consumed, rather crudely, by holding an end in one's mouth and cutting off the rest with a knife.

The good news is that Gaucho Grill doesn't insist on the hack-and-chunk approach.

You can begin with picadas, such as two different kinds of chorizo (spicy sausage), Argentino ($2.95) and a new item, chicken and turkey basil chorizo ($3.95), each served with chopped onions and tomatoes (similar to a Mexican pico de gallo). Both of these grilled sausages are coarsely ground and subtle in flavor; just one per order.

Empanadas ($4.95 for two) are filled pastries that are deep-fried; here you can order yours with beef and spices, spinach & cheese, or ham and cheese ("Tastes just like a Breakfast Jack," our waiter said.) The best part about the empanadas are their light and flaky pastry, differentiating them from similar dishes in other cuisines.

Sauteed mushrooms ($3.95) with white wine, garlic and parsley is a starter that would pair well with one of the grilled meat entrees. Adventurous types may wish to try the grilled mollejas (beef sweetbreads, $5.95), an item you don't often see on American menus — silky and flavorful in a way only organ meats can be.

I really enjoyed the house salad ($3.95), an assortment of baby greens, tomato wedges and red onion, dressed with balsamic vinaigrette. Griega salad ($6.95) offers Roma tomatoes, red onion, Kalamata black olives, red and green sweet peppers, and deliciously sharp feta cheese served over a bed of fresh lettuces. For an extra $2, diced grilled chicken will be added.

Chicken entrees are served with rice and salad. Very popular is the garlic chicken on the bone ($8.95), a grilled half bird topped with marinated garlic and grilled onions. You can order a boneless version for $9.95. My favorite was the rotisserie chicken ($7.95) with grilled onions. There's something about this cooking method that is a match made in heaven for almost any type of meat. Other chicken choices include a spicy chicken breast ($8.95), breaded chicken breast ($8.95) and Dijon chicken ($9.95).

However, as in Argentina, beef is king here. I enjoyed the skirt steak ($12.95), a cut rarely seen these days, even in grocery stores. This once-inexpensive, flavorful cut was once a staple in thrifty households. But skirt steak became very popular several years ago as the meat of choice for fajitas and the price went up. It's tough to find skirt steak here, though, so I recommend you try the Gaucho Grill version.

Breaded steak ($10.95) is labeled "Honolulu's favorite" on the menu: a large round steak, coated with a breading flavored with garlic and parsley, and lightly fried. The rib-eye steak ($13.95) is a 13-ounce portion, and the New York steak ($10.95) is an eight-ouncer.

Gaucho Grill is appealing visually, with its black carpet and light wood flooring. There's an open kitchen and a separate bar area, too. I found the service less efficient and not as friendly as it could be. Foodwise, though, if a simple menu of primarily grilled meats appeals, this place is for you.

Reach Matthew Gray at mgray@honoluluadvertiser.com.