ISLAND STYLE
Unmask your own creature features using makeup

DOYLE HUMMEL		CONNOR		YAMADA

By Paula Rath
Advertiser Staff Writer

The Peacock (Katie Doyle Hummel), the Tiger (Connor Hummel) and the Cat (Kevin Yamada) are the cosmetics costumes brewed up by salon artist Greg Howell for Halloween do-it-yourselfers. Photos by Deborah Booker • The Honolulu Advertiser

With a little makeup and some imagination, prowling Waikiki or Lahaina may still be within reach.

From quick do-it-yourself Halloween makeup kits to professional makeup artists, there are obvious advantages to using makeup instead of masks: You can eat and drink, there's better visibility and it's not as hot.

For inspiration, leaf through a stack of National Geographics or fashion magazines. Children's books and even fine art books have a wealth of ideas you can borrow. At www.maccosmetics.com, the hip Canadian cosmetics firm has do-it-yourself Halloween faces. The site lets you to download printable versions of animals, clowns, monsters and femmes fatale with instructions for application.

If you don't mind shelling out a few bucks, hire a professional makeup artist to transform you.

But since hiring a professional is beyond most of our budgets, we have asked Greg Howell, a makeup artist at Paul Brown Salon in Ward Centre who is also an expert at stage makeup, to help us with the basics of makeup. Howell is currently creating the hair and makeup for "Honk," the fantasy retelling of Hans Christian Andersen's "The Ugly Duckling," opening tomorrow at Manoa Valley Theatre.

We asked Howell to create Halloween looks for two of the actors in "Honk": Kevin Yamada, who plays the Cat, and Katie Doyle Hummel, who plays Ida the Mother Duck. Hummel brought along her 2-year-old son, Connor James Hummel, for Howell to transform into character using only makeup.

Makeup tips

It took Howell less than half an hour to create these looks, though it would probably take a novice about an hour.

He advises against buying drugstore-variety Halloween makeup kits because "the colors are not deeply pigmented and they are too hard to work with." Basic, everyday makeup works better, he said.

Start with the lightest colors, and work your way to the darker shades, he said. Powder makeup is better than an oil-based one because it will stay on longer and be less smudgy, he added.

However, makeup can irritate the eyes, he warns, so it's best to dampen the brush when working near them.

If you plan to use glitter, Howell said, make sure it's cosmetic glitter, not the big chunky stuff that can be dangerous to the eyes.

When wearing elaborate theme makeup, all you need is an inexpensive wig or some hair goop and simple black T-shirt and pants to finish off the look. A cape or feather boa can also be festive.

The Cat

Howell began by rubbing a bar of soap over Yamada's eyebrows to flatten them out and make them disappear.

He then contoured with a pale stick foundation, adding stick bronzer for the medium tones. The lines and whiskers were drawn with eye shadow. He whited out the lips and created a cat mouth with dark brown eye shadow.

For the cat hair and ears, Howell dampened Yamada's hair, applied a dollop of Paul Brown Wacks, brushed it up into an old-fashioned ducktail, flipped up the sides and blew it dry.

The Peacock

Hummel's eyebrows are also slicked down with soap. To lighten the lids and contour the cheekbones, Howell used highlighter. Dark brown eye shadow created dramatic cheekbones, and deep purple and navy eye shadows made Hummel's eyes feather-like. Iridescent eye shadow on her brow and high cheekbones create a gleam. Four pairs of false eyelashes, each a different length, added drama. Burgundy lip liner and fuchsia gloss make her lips pop.

The holographic decals that Howell found at Fisher office supply create magic and sparkle. They simply stick on and stay put. No glue is needed, so they are simpler and less painful than rhinestones.

The Tiger

Makeup is especially effective and safe for keiki as visibility is not compromised and, unlike masks, there are no sharp edges. Howell used only powder cosmetics for Connor, and the task was completed in five minutes, so he didn't even squirm.

He began by applying white eye shadow on Connor's cheeks and a dark brown one on his nose. He contoured the whiskers and jowls with various shades of brown.

A little collar and some ears (not necessary, but cute), and voila! Instant costume.