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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Sunday, September 8, 2002

If you go to North Kohala...

Explore scenic and historic North Kohala
Hike through history at Pololu Valley
Map of North Kohala

Cautionary notes

Sun, wind and weather are to be respected in the dramatic landscape of North Kohala. Coming from the Kohala Coast on Highway 270 (Akoni Pule Highway), you first pass through a hot, dry, lava-strewn landscape. If you'll be exploring, be sure you have a hat, sunscreen, sturdy shoes and lots of water to drink. Consult guidebooks or talk to locals before swimming or snorkeling in deserted bays; some have dangerous currents and are known to be home to sharks.

Suddenly, at about mile 13, the landscape becomes lush green pastureland. Past Hawi, it's closer to jungle. If you're planning to walk or hike, light raingear, proper shoes, insect repellent and water are important; binoculars, so you can spot whales in season, or check out the birds, are nice.

Do not hike in posted areas or trespass beyond fences. The trail into Pololu Valley is of medium difficulty but sporadically maintained. Be aware that some people have been hassled (unpleasantness, but no violence) when hiking there. A quiet, friendly, respectful attitude is advised when crossing on or near people's kuleana lands.

North Kohala adventures

If you're staying in a hotel, the concierge desk can help with arrangements, but be aware that the most popular excursions often are booked. It's best to call head.

Hawaii Forest and Trail — Nature adventures including hiking, mule treks, birdwatching, stargazing. (800) 464-1993, (808) 331-8505. www.hawaii-forest.com

Flumin' Da Ditch — Kayak trips down the Kohala Ditch, suitable for families. Toll free (877) 449-6922, (808) 889-6922. www.flumindaditch.com

HMV Tours — Hummer safaris into the rain forest of the Kohala Mountains. Toll free (877) 449-6922, (808) 889-6922. www.hmvtours.com

Where to stay

The resort areas of the Kohala Coast are a little over an hour's drive from Hawi — not too far for a daytrip, but if you want to explore the area over a period of days, it's best to say closer. Among the options:

Kohala Village Inn, Hawi, (808) 889-0419. Friendly, clean local-style hotel caters to business folks, Islanders visiting families in the area.

Cook's Cottage, (808) 889-0912. Modest, comfy studio cottage between Hawi and Kea'au.

MacArthur & Co., Kamuela. Lists numerous high-end vacation rentals suitable for families and people for whom price is no option. (808) 885-8885, ext. 204; www.letsgohawaii.com/v-rental/homes_n_kohala.htm

Information on nearby bed-and-breakfast operations:

Bed and Breakfast Hawaii lists four B&B in the Hawi-Kea'au area, ranging from $65 for a private suite with continental breakfast to $125 a night for studio suites with kitchenette and breakfast foods provided; various conditions apply. (808) 822-7711; www.bandb-hawaii.com; e-mail reservations@bandb-hawaii.com

• Hawaii Island B & B Association, based in Honoka'a, lists three bed and breakfast operations in the area, with varying accommodations from $65 a night for a suite with mountain views to $130 for suites with private entrances and baths on a sprawling farm. Write PO Box 1890, Honoka'a, HI 96727; www.stayhawaii.com; e-mail hibba@stayhawaii.com

Helpful books

Guidebooks: "Hawaii the Big Island Revealed: The Ultimate Guidebook" by Andrew Doughty and Harriet Friedman, (Wizard Publications, 2002; www.wizardpub.com). "Moon Handbooks," "Rough," "Hidden" and "Lonely Planet" guides also helpful

History: "Kohala Keia: Collected Expressions of a Community," multiple authors (1977, reprinted 1999 by the Kohala Library Fund), available in some libraries or at Kohala Book Shop in Kapa'au. "Ancient Sites of Hawai'i" by Van James

Hiking: "Hawaii Trails" by Kathy Morey. "Hiking Hawai'i, the Big Island" by Robert Smith. "Hawaiian Hiking Trails," by Craig Chisholm

Web sites

A guide to businesses in the Kohala area:
bigisland.com/html/Kohala_General.html

Pictures and brief introductions to neat places:
www.alternative-hawaii.com

Shopping and information:
www.coffeetimes.com