Kappo Aoki's kaiseki experience delicious and artful

By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic

The elaborate kaiseki dinner at Kappo Aoki restaurant allows diners to choose an entrée of New York steak or miso butterfish. As for the other courses, expect the chefs to delight you. Gregory Yamamoto • The Honolulu Advertiser Kappo Aoki McCully Shopping Center Suite 214 (second floor) 1960 Kapi'olani Blvd. 946-8811 Good

Aside from choosing your main entrée (the $50 kaiseki meal at Kappo Aoki allows you to choose from prime New York steak or miso butterfish), everything else is predetermined back in the kitchen. Foods are served raw, fresh, boiled, simmered, grilled or vinegared.

The meaning of the word kaiseki comes from the story of Buddhist priests, who, while observing strict Zen training, would keep a hot stone (seki) in their kimono pocket (kai) in order to make their fasting more bearable. Originally, the kaiseki was served during tea ceremonies and also is called cha (tea) kaiseki. Originally it was a vegetarian meal, but nowadays kaiseki includes meat and seafood.

Kaiseki meals are cooked in ways that enhance intrinsic flavors, simply seasoned and presented on lacquered trays, ceramic crocks and other attractive pieces of dinnerware. Often, things from nature, such as leaves and flowers, accompany the dishes.

We were offered hot moist washcloths when we sat down at our table. This is always a nice touch, especially when it remains on your table throughout the meal. Even after losing its heat, the cloth still can be quite refreshing to dab yourself with.

Our kimono-clad waitresses were quiet and efficient. The first course consisted of four small dishes: an egg-potato salad, green bean with daikon, cucumber with seaweed, and a very interesting combination of tofu and gelatin.

The next plate was a whole sardine or similar small fish, fried, cut in half and arranged on a slice of lime. The fish was wrapped in a shiso leaf before being lightly battered and fried.

A fresh oyster on the half shell came next, enhanced with a drop of cocktail sauce, sided by crisp asparagus and a mayo dipping sauce. This rectangular plate also displayed a beautiful fresh purple orchid.

A generous bowl of tuna, squid and yellowtail sashimi followed. On the side was ogo, shiso leaf, grated radish and wasabi. The fish was high-grade, a treat for those who adore sashimi.

Chawan mushi, the silky and savory egg custard, was served in an impressive gold pot. A smoky flavor and aroma made themselves known instantly, and beneath the surface awaited shiitake mushroom and bamboo shoot, with bits of chicken and shrimp.

Our entrée plates arrived next; mine had three yummy pieces of miso butterfish, Miss A's had the prime New York steak over grilled mushrooms, onions and asparagus. She said it was the best steak she's had in Honolulu. I'd have to place it way up on the list as well; it was glorious and delicious. A mixed green salad also was offered.

We thought for sure that the entrée marked the end of the meal. We were wrong. A bowl with squash, pumpkin, an unidentified starchy tuber, spinach and shaved bonito was set down before us. This dish was anticlimactic, especially after the steak and butterfish.

I commented on the absence of the usual rice and tea. Neither had made an appearance up to this point. But just as we were catching our breath, a round white crock with a wood top, filled with rice porridge, was set down. Inside, a quail egg, sunny side up, surrounded by salmon eggs, begged for our attention. By then, I was too full to appreciate this dish.

Finally, it was dessert time. The choices were disappointing: vanilla ice cream with sweetened red beans, or vanilla ice cream over coffee gelatin. I was expecting something more elegant, to work within the theme of the kaiseki dinner. Fresh fruit would have been more appropriate, or, even better, something hand-made would have been a better fit.

The Kappo Aoki kaiseki is a dining experience that I appreciated for its art and subtlety. It's more about ancient ceremonial aspects and the slow awareness of life than it is about any particular food item.

Reach Matthew Gray at mgray@honoluluadvertiser.com.