Getting to the heart of the artichoke

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Photo by Los Angeles Times

These sophisticated vegetables have a well-deserved reputation for being a fussy, labor-intensive food and one with which it's easy to go wrong.

But actually, if you can boil water and wield a sharp knife with any confidence, you can prepare a basic steamed or boiled artichoke — and virtually every other artichoke dish there is.

And don't tell anyone, but frozen or even canned artichoke hearts are a perfectly acceptable option when you're making some sort of cooked dish, such as an Italian omelet or a cheesy casserole.

More good news: You can trim artichokes (technique to follow) and steam or braise them in advance (technique to follow), then hold them, covered, in the refrigerator , so you can spread the fuss out over a couple of days. Or use the leaves at once and refrigerate the bottom — that tender, meaty, cup-shaped bit at the center; just be sure to refrigerate it covered in liquid. Food writer Diane Forley cautions you not to throw out artichoke steaming or braising liquid; use it in soups or as a starter for a sauce.

Most of us know artichokes best in one of two forms: steamed or boiled and served hot with melted butter or cold with mayonnaise. We're also familiar with the marinated kind in a jar — for use in salads, atop pizza or in those creamy artichoke dips everybody loves.

Allow me to introduce you to the entire rest of the artichoke world.

For example, L.A. Times food writer Russ Parsons' favorite: whole artichokes, halved and well-trimmed, cooked over medium heat in a covered pan with extra virgin oil and water, mashed garlic and minced parsley, until tender. Remove the lid, turn up the heat, cook off the liquid and let the artichokes begin to brown. Serve as a side dish.

Artichokes á la Greque is similar: trimmed, halved artichokes or artichoke hearts are poached in a classic tart blend of white wine, vinegar, herbs and garlic, then served cold or at room temperature.

A wonderful risotto can be made with artichoke hearts, steamed, sliced or chopped or lightly sauteed in butter and stirred into the risotto just at the end of the cooking period.

We've all but forgotten the once common technique of using hollowed-out artichokes as a nest in which to serve a light dressing or gratin mixture, but this is one of the most pleasant preparations you can make. Clean and trim artichokes, then use a spoon to dig out the choke (those pokey leaves and nasty hairy stuff at the center). Fill the hollowed-out center with a lightly tossed mixture of fresh fine bread crumbs, minced garlic, minced onion, grated Parmesan cheese, chopped parsley, salt and pepper — a little ham or sausage doesn't go amiss, either. Drizzle with olive oil and bake in a 350-degree oven, covered, in a half-inch of boiling water or stock for40 minutes, until tender, then uncover and allow top to brown a little.

And here's one I bet you've missed: artichoke leaves, deep-fried as snacks. The critically acclaimed new cookbook, "Anatomy of a Dish," offers the technique: Steam or braise well-trimmed artichokes. Pull tender pale green leaves off artichokes. Dry well. Heat half an inch of olive oil (blended or extra virgin) until hot (340 degrees); a leaf dropped in should sizzle. Fry leaves, a few at a time, 3 minutes per batch, until just golden. Remove with slotted spoon, sprinkle with fine sea salt and serve warm or at room temperature.

Artichoke plants produce a variety of "fruit" — small (egg-size), medium (lemon-size) and large (a man's fist). The small ones aren't immature, they're just small. The smallest artichokes are preferred for tossing into dishes such as pasta, the larger ones for steaming and using in various forms.